In the United States, the fixed-base router has been the dominant router design for over half a century. The tool is simple, with few moving parts, and in my view is safer than a plunge router for most operations. The motor, clamped firmly (fixed) in its base casting, has a simple depth adjustment, but it must be stopped and reset between cuts. The plunge router overcomes this disadvantage, and is the tool of choice for deep mortises that must be cut in several passes.

In the United States, the fixed-base router has been the dominant router design for over half a century. The tool is simple, with few moving parts, and in my view is safer than a plunge router for most operations. The motor, clamped firmly (fixed) in its base casting, has a simple depth adjustment, but it must be stopped and reset between cuts. The plunge router overcomes this disadvantage, and is the tool of choice for deep mortises that must be cut in several passes.

Router basics

The anatomy of a fixed-base router is quite simple and has remained essentially the same since it first came on the scene. The motor is packaged in a precision-ground cylinder that fits precisely in a matching aluminum base casting. All of the motors have bearings on either end of their armatures, a pair of carbon brushes that transmit electrical current to the armature, and a collet fixed to the business end of the tool. The positioning of the motors in the base castings varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, as well as the knob assemblies, castings, switches, wire sets, and collets.

Castings, handles, and switches — Base castings vary and are quite distinguishable. All have windows for good cutter visibility, though most base plates are black and hide the work surface. DeWalt and Porter-Cable will supply accessory transparent subbase replacements. A router that can readily stand upside down for bit changes is a nice convenience. Porter-Cable, DeWalt, and Milwaukee have accounted for this. The Bosch model has a radius on the motor cap for comfort, but at some expense for upside down stability.

The knob or handle assemblies of most fixed-base routers are placed low on the machine and provide stability. Plastic, wood, and metal are the typical materials, and most people will have their own opinions on which are most comfortable. I use an offset subbase on all of my fixed-base routers, and I control the tool with one hand on the base casting and the other on the offset base. This configuration allows maximum control especially around the corners and along the edges of the work. However, you should be aware that the position of the two casting knobs supplied with a router is well thought out. So give them a good try before considering any changes.

Wire sets are either two- or three-conductor depending on how the tool is insulated. Double-insulated tools will have two-prong plugs without the ground. All commercial routers use rubber jacketed wire sets but most are different lengths. I am 6 ft. tall and I always use an extension cord, but I would like the plug to remain on the ground and for me that means a 10-ft. wire set.

Switches

Switches are slide, toggle, rocker or trigger, and their locations vary. I would not select a router based on the switch; it’s a good idea to clarify the off position so you know the tool is off when you plug it in 10 ft. away. Also, prepare yourself for a quick stop and keep your hands in a convenient location for hitting the off button easily. You never know when a clamp may slip or something else go awry.

Power

Fixed-base routers in the commercial class range from about 1 to 3 hp. Weight and appropriate applications scale up with the power; expect about 7 or 8 pounds difference within this power range. More power also means more metal and consequently the capacity to soak up heat. A router in heavy use can heat up, and if the heat exceeds the cooling fan’s capacity, then the router gets hot to the touch. However, the longer it takes to heat up, the less likely it will break down from overload. So if your router is consistently hot, reduce the load or get a bigger router.

Porter-Cable has every power range covered — from 7/8 hp to 3-1/4 hp. DeWalt’s only entry is 1.5 hp; Bosch has models in 1-3/4 hp and 2 hp; and Milwaukee in 1-1/2 hp and 2 hp. Ryobi, Makita, and Sears/Craftsman also have fixed-base entrants of various strengths, but Makita is the only commercial-grade tool with two entries at 1 hp and 1-3/8 hp. Porter-Cable has an exclusive in the sustained all-day power class (7518), and there are no other fixed-base routers of its size (3 hp).

D-Handled routers

The D-handled router is the least popular fixed-base design and the most costly. It does enjoy a limited niche market, however. Its advocates claim safety and control because a pistol-style switch is gripped to start the router. To stop, you just release. With the switch in hand, you can shut down quickly, but in my view that safety margin is more than offset by a loss of control. A D-handled router is always held the same way and has less stability as you finish a pass at the end of the workpiece. Moreover, the obligatory D-handle in line with the travel of the router interferes with cuts made with edge guides and collar guides. Pat Warner has written four books and some 70 articles on routers and router techniques. He is a frequent contributor to Fine Woodworking magazine and makes furniture, router jigs, and aftermarket router accessories in his Escondido, California, workshop.

Photos: Lon Atkinson; drawing: Ron Carboni

Excerpted from Chapter 3 of The Router Book, pp. 41-47