Although sliding bevels are not complicated tools, I learned that there are differences among them. Some differences are obvious and others are more subtle, but all have an effect on the quality of the tool. A sliding bevel consists of a body and a slotted blade that pivots on a machine screw or steel pin on one end of the body. A thin opening along much of the body accepts the blade. Manufacturers employ a variety of methods to lock the blade in place. A good sliding bevel will have a body and blade that are flat and straight and a locking mechanism that’s strong yet unobtrusive.  The most handsome of those tested but also the most expensive, the Bridge City features a smallish locking knob and didn’t tighten smoothly, making it uncomfortable to lock and unlock.

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Marking knife: Hock Double-Bevel Violin Knife, 3/4 in.

This heavy, double-beveled knife stays on track in all directions, and works just fine without adding a handle.

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Suizan Japanese Pull Saw

A versatile saw that can be used for anything from kumiko to dovetails. Mike Pekovich recommends them as a woodworker's first handsaw.

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Veritas Micro-Adjust Wheel Marking Gauge

The adjuster runs through the beam from a small knob at the back end right to the cutting wheel, which moves in and out as you turn the knob. This arrangement works well but makes adjustments a two-handed operation, requiring a little more effort.

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