This adjustable tapering jig for the tablesaw is easy to make and sets up in a flash. It replaces all of those dedicated one-time jigs, and it’s more reliable than a jig that puts the blank directly on the tabletop.

The fixture is basically a sled with a runner on the bottom that slides in the miter-gauge slot. This arrangement ensures that the edge of the sled is snug against the blade every time. No fence adjustments are required. The jig consists of five main parts: The sled, the runner, a fence at the front that incorporates an adjustable stop block, a hold-down and a cam-action disc at the back that sets the taper angle.

To make the fixture, first cut the 30-in.-long sled from 3/4-in.-thick plywood and an equally long hardwood runner to fit the miter-gauge slot. Put the runner in the miter slot, raise the sawblade all the way up and, with the edge of the sled square against the blade, nail two brads through the sled into the runner to attach it temporarily. Remove the sled, invert and secure the runner with four countersunk screws. Now attach the fence assembly to the front and the disc to the back. Secure the 3-1/2-in.-dia. disc with a wood screw 3/4 in. off center that creates a cam action that will vary the depth of the taper cut.

To use the jig, first adjust and lock the stop block on the fence to set where the taper will end. Then, with one end of the workpiece against the stop block and the other end against the disc, turn the disc until the finished width of the leg is in line with the edge of the sled. Readjust both stops, if necessary, until everything is perfect. Now push the workpiece blank against the two stops, lock it down and cut the taper. Turn the blank 90¡ clockwise and make a second cut. This will produce a leg that is beautifully tapered on two sides. To make a leg that is tapered on four sides, you will need to readjust the disc for cuts three and four.

David Hastings, Haverford, Pa.

Fine Woodworking Magazine, June 2002 No. 156

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