As a maker of traditional wooden fifes, I need to bore long, straight holes in the ends of my flutes. I do this operation on a lathe using an end-boring jig I made from metal pipe and scrap iron. The tool is adapted from a method described to me by Trevor Robinson, who wrote The Amateur Wind Instrument Maker (University of Massachusetts Press, 1980). The jig was developed for hollowing fifes, but it works equally well for drilling lamp cord holes or any deep hole in a turned spindle.

Start by making a special tailstock. Take a 1/2-in.-dia. bronze pipe tee, and screw a 1/2-in.-dia. by 4-in.-long iron pipe nipple into the tee. Next weld up a bracket that clamps to the lathe bed with the same hardware used to mount a tool rest. Drill a hole for the nipple through the bracket at the same height as the centerline of the lathe. Then drill and tap the top of the bracket for a locking screw. The locking screw allows you to adjust the pipe assembly for perfect alignment. Then grind around the outside of the opening of one branch end to make a sharp edge to dig into the end of your turning stock. This sharpened end faces the headstock to support the work during drilling.

To use the fixture, first prepare the stock as follows. Cut diagonal drive kerfs on one end with a bandsaw as normal. On the other end, center-drill an 11/16-in.-dia. hole 1/8 in. deep. This shallow hole provides a bearing for the tailstock. Where the first hole ends, drill a pilot hole 3/4 in. deep. Mount the stock in the lathe using the special tailstock. Set the lathe at low speed, around 1,000 rpm. Hold the shank of a long shell auger with vise grips. Drill in the pilot hole through the bronze pipe tee. Because the work is turning and the tool is stationary, the shank of the drill will orbit if the tip wanders off-center. With a little practice, you will learn how to correct this while drilling.

Walter Sweet, Wellsville, N.Y.

Fine Woodworking Magazine, August 1994 No. 107

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