Radial-Arm Saw Tips
The radial-arm saw is a well-used tool in my workshop, but a few simple modifications have increased its utility even more. The modifications are aimed at reducing the space for the machine itself, increasing the life of the wooden table and making miter cuts easier to make and more accurate as well.
The first idea is deceptively simple I cut the corners off the front of the wooden table. The saw’s table needs to be quite long at the back, near the fence, but the front is rarely used. So losing the corners makes moving the machine a lot more pleasant without affecting its ability to support the timber being cut.
The second idea is more involved because I have thrown away the legs and mounted the machine on the wall 48 in. from the floor using welded up angle-iron brackets as shown. This sounds rather tall, but after the initial “shock period,” I have found it easy and pleasant to use. Mounting the machine this way creates valuable space underneath the machine, which I use to store another tool when I need floor space.
To ensure good support underneath the cut, I have routed trenches 3/4 in. wide by 3/16 in. deep along both the 90¡ and 45¡ cuts. These grooves are filled with well-fitted hardwood strips held in place with double-sided tape. I prepare several pieces of these “sacrificial” strips at the same time and fit a new one when support is particularly needed. To cut miters, I remove the insert behind the main table and replace it with the fixture shown in the sketch. Leaving the arm in the 90¡ position, I miter the first piece by holding it against the left fence. The second piece is mitered using the right fence. Even if each angle is not exactly 45¡, as long as the fixed angle between the fences is 90¡, perfect miters are achieved.
John Burchett, Copnor, Portsmouth, England
Fine Woodworking Magazine, December 1993 No. 103
Fine Woodworking Recommended Products
Craftsman Random Orbit Sander
Stanley Powerlock 16-ft. tape measure
Makita SP6000J1 Track Saw
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