Comments

1. 
   kayaks | Oct 12, 2010 03:10pm | #1

   Matthew,

   I am planning to build an 84" long dresser with 3 rows of drawers flush to the case edges. The case is solid 1" thick walnut and I plan to miter the corners so that no edges are showing. I plan to strengthen and glue the miter joints with with loose tenons ( dominoes) but I am worried that this will not provide enough strength to keep the case square over it's length. There will be one horizontal dust panel and several vertical partitions so I can attach drawer slides. All of the partitions and dust panel will be slip tenoned to allow for expansion. The horizontal dust panel will be dadoes into the case sides, and all the vertical partitions will be screwed into the case and dust panel. There will be 3 sets of short legs, one pair at each end and one pair in the middle screwed to the case bottom. Since I want the drawers to have a tight fit ( allowing for expansion/contraction), the case must be square. Do you think I need to beef up the case construction in the corners to provide more surface to keep the case square? Thanks.

   Kayaks

2. 
   MKenney | Oct 12, 2010 03:41pm | #2

   Kayaks,

   Good question. Basically, you're asking whether miter joints, reinforced by domino slip tenons, are strong enough to keep the case square, right? The case is 84 in. long and solid wood. How wide (front to back) is it?

   Thanks, Matt

3. 
   kayaks | Oct 12, 2010 04:29pm | #3

   Matt,

   You are correct. The case is 14" deep front to back, and the back wil bbe 1/2" plywood nailed and glued.

   Kayaks

4. 
   kayaks | Oct 12, 2010 04:36pm | #4

   Matt,

   There was more than 1 typo in my last comment. The case is going to be 19" deep, not 14". Sorry.

   Kayaks

5. 
   MKenney | Oct 12, 2010 05:53pm | #5

   Kayaks,

   Thanks for the responses. I'll look into it.

   Matt

6. 
   Splinter1 | Oct 12, 2010 05:56pm | #6

   I have a question. I am in need (and want) of a new workbench. I love a European style bench but feel a "Roubo" style would suit my work better with the front legs flush with the top. Last spring I gave in and bought a pre-made Hard Maple top: 24" x 60" x 1-3/4" before I decided on the "Roubo". Originally I was going European and adding a wide thick band arround it. Now I am wondering if I could laminate it to make it thicker. The top is of 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" strips of Maple turned so the grain is quartersawn than glued together. My question is; "Can I add the same thing again(glued),under the top to make it thicker?"?? If so it would give it more mass and weight and delete the need for the banding?. Please give me your toughts. I have already spent hard to come-bye cash on the top and vises but can not make up my mind if it would not break itself apart due to wood movement!?.
   Thanks

7. 
   MKenney | Oct 12, 2010 06:45pm | #7

   Splinter1,

   Another great question. I think you'd be okay glue up to make the top thicker, but I'll ask around and get some other opinions.

   Matt

8. 
   Splinter1 | Oct 12, 2010 08:42pm | #8

   Thanks, I really have been putting it off because some say ya and some say no.

   Thanks again!

9. 
   MKenney | Oct 14, 2010 06:47pm | #9

   Splinter1,

   I checked around with some other folks and I think you're okay laminating another layer onto the store bought top. Here is some advice. First, use the same species. Second, the boards should be approximately the same size. Three, you'll need to figure out some way to get clamping pressure along the entire length of the laminates so that the glue between the layers is tight. I would make cauls to spread pressure. It will take quite a few.

   Now that I think about it a bit more, if I were in your position, I might sell the top I have and use the money to make the top I wanted. Much less hassle.

   Good luck. Matt

10. 
    stevecostain | Nov 12, 2010 03:28pm | #10

    Hello,
    Last winter I built 8 chairs for my wife and this winter I plan to build a table with 2 leaves. I had originaly planned to build a rectangular table 40" x 54" expandable to 90".
    But recently I completed a bed canopy project that required a vacuum press and after gaining a bit of experience with that process I am considering building the tabletop with 2-3" curved sides over 54" and a porportionate amount on the ends.I would build the aprons with a porportionate curve using my vacuum press.
    My question is will these chairs "look" right with the table?
    I will need to send a picture (don't see a way to do this)

    Thanks for listening, Steve Costain

11. 
    mortalhero | Jan 18, 2017 04:39pm | #11

    This is my first major project. I'd like to build a Greene/Greene style hobby desk in maple (anything but oak). I've sketched it up, but now I'm finding out that obtaining 2.25" x 2.25" x 38" maple is much easier said than done. I've found a way to laminate very nicely, but the tops of the legs will be unsightly, and I would like the desktop to hinge open which would expose the tops of the legs (end grains of the legs). Any ideas?

12. 
    MKenney | Feb 03, 2017 03:11pm | #12

    Mortalhero,

    I apologize for the delay in responding to your question. You don't need to use 10/4 maple. You can glue up the parts from thinner maple, say 4/4.

    Good luck.

    Matt

13. 
    SandyKayMN | Nov 26, 2018 12:43pm | #13

    I am a relatively new woodworker (3 years). I am building a bed for myself. I have GERD (acid reflux) so the head of my bed needs to be 6 inches higher than the foot of the bed. Until now I have not had a headboard so I just put concrete blocks under the head of my bed. If I do that with my new bed, the headboard will be slanted away from the wall so I want to incorporate the slant into the side rails design. My question is whether it makes sense for the entire 6 inches to be in the slant of the side rails from making the headboard taller or should some of the 6 inches be in the placement of the mattress support within the side rails themselves (the side rails will be about 6 inches wide so there would be room to incorporate some slant there)? Also, how do I calculate the angle of the end cuts on the side rails? I'm sure I'm not the only woodworker with GERD so an article on adapting bed plans might be of general interest but I'd love an answer before then so I can finish my bed. Thanks!