Comments

1. 
   DougSeagrim | Dec 03, 2016 10:39am | #1

   I use a carbide tooth blade for almost everything I cut on the bandsaw. The one I have is a 3/8 and since the teeth are wider than the blade body it keeps the kerf clean and does a much cleaner cut than any other blade I have used. Well worth the extra money.

2. 
   TimBennett | Feb 01, 2017 09:58am | #2

   Great video. Learned a lot. Thanks!

3. 
   TTTTT | Apr 01, 2018 05:41pm | #3

   You refer to a technique that uses the side of the blade, but you never explain the technique. Please explain the technique.

1. 
   TboneTim | Jan 02, 2022 01:21pm | #7

   The technique is explained in Fortune's companion article in FWW Magazine #199, July/Aug 2005.

   Fortune states: "I found a way to overcome this problem by slightly twisting the wood during the cut so that one side of the kerf remains in contact with the back edge of the blade (see photos, facing page). In essence, the back of the blade serves as a steady rest, eliminating the side-to-side wobble and allowing you to control the cut with precision. The technique certainly takes some practice (you may want to try it with a wider blade at first), but you’ll be shocked at the results."

   I have found this technique to be effective, almost Zen-like in application, and requiring some serious practice to get to the "Aha!" moment.

   He also addresses the question below about compound curves and many other aspects of bandsaw curve cutting.

   Michael Fortune is a great teacher and the bandsaw maestro.

1. 
   TTTTT | Jan 03, 2022 02:55am | #8

   Thank you for that reference, Tbone. Most edifying.

   Fortune does not state, but the drawing implies, which side of the blade back to contact. You press contact with the blade back on the inside of the curve - correct? Then if the curve reverses direction, you change your slight force to the other side of the blade?

   Have not tried it yet. Just picturing it, it seems that by slightly twisting the wood to contact the the rear blade edge, you are slightly pointing the blade teeth to move off the line, to cut away from the line.

   What is the feel of the technique that allows it to stay on the line?
   Are you sort of cutting with the side of the blade teeth? In a microscopic way, rotating the wood around the blade with the back edge being the center of the rotation?

   And, can you use this technique to up your precision in cutting a straight line?

   Thanks

1. 
   TboneTim | Jan 04, 2022 01:44pm | #9

   TTTTT,
   I've tried concentrating on applying the pressure to one side or the other depending on the curve, but just get confused. Following the pictures in the article, you'd have to switch hands every time the curve reversed, which for me causes me to lose the line. I just try to think of having one side of the back of the blade in contact and pivoting off of it to keep the kerf just outside of the pencil mark. Another way I think of it is that I don't want the teeth wandering aimlessly in the kerf as I cut. It takes a really light touch, or I find myself deflecting the blade too much. And it takes practice, and I always do some practice cuts until I feel I've got it. And as Michael says, it's easy to get the feel for the technique on a wider blade before moving to a narrower blade for tighter curves.

4. 
   berferdt | Jul 12, 2020 10:35pm | #4

   I was hoping he would include a compound curve - his ideas regarding a cut with both left and right curves.
   I've used the side of the teeth for what was called 'band milling' by a coworker. I understand what Was described in the video, but concur with TTTTT that more explanation could have been included. The pedantic bandsaw adjustment instructions are a repetition of some videos focused on just that, by the same presenter.

5. 
   TTTTT | Jan 01, 2022 01:26pm | #5

   berfedt,
   In the spirit of explaining what one referred to, please explain ‘band milling’.
   Domo

6. 
   mephotoman | Jan 01, 2022 02:59pm | #6

   Exccellent video, thanks! Going out to the shop to practice some of the techniques. Especially the not choking up on the cut but holding the workpiece way back from the blade.