Blog
Shaker chimney cupboard questions?
Feb 22, 2012
One feature we’re hoping to add to our video workshops is the ability to post questions about the project. Right now there’s no way to do that.
As a follow up to the Shaker chimney cupboard project I recently worked on, I thought I’d start this post in order to answer any questions you might have. In addition, I’ll post the answers to any emails that are sent my way.
-Mike
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Comments
I've seen the excellent videos. Is there an actual article in FWW magazine on the build of this cupboard?
There's no article in the works just yet. We've run some great articles on Shaker furniture by Christian Becksvoort fairly recently. So if the editor did choose to run an article on the chimney cupboard, it wouldn't be for a while.
Mike
It's a very nice piece. Where did you get the 7.5 degree table saw blade? Was it specially ground?
Arthur
I bought my dovetail blade from Forrest Mfg (forestblades.com). They list 11.5, 9.5, and 7 degrees as options, they'll also grind a blade to your specifications. Be sure to let them know which way your saw tilts. The Forrest blade is $125, but a cheaper alternative would be to buy any blade with a flat-top grind and send it to them to be sharpened at the angle you want. In the FW shop we use an 8-in. Freud blade ground to 9.5 degrees.
Mike
I was thinking about making one of these to store bath towels in. I'm thinking of using cedar, do you think this would be a good choice? It may actually be in the bathroom
Doug
It shouldn't pose a problem to make the cabinet out of cedar. Another option would be to make just the frame and panel back out of cedar. Which ever way you go, the important thing is to not apply finish to the inside face of the cedar.
Good luck, Mike
I loved the video series; imagining where I might put such a piece in our house. Tangential question: I thought I noticed that your table saw out feed is your workbench; is that correct? I have a small workspace, want to build a bench and need out feed for my saw. Are you content with your setup? What are the pros and cons or what would you design differently about your workbench to optimize it since it doubles as your tablesaw out feed? Please forgive the question if I am mistaken.
Thanks.
Gary
Hi Gary- I have a dedicated workbench, but you're right, I've outfitted my outfeed table as a workbench as well. For years though, my only workbench doubled as an outfeed table for my tablesaw and it served me very well in a tight space. The obvious downside is the need to clear the clutter for ripping on occasion. I have that same problem in my current set up because I seem to use my outfeed table as much as my workbench, but it's not really a bother.
The other consideration is that the outfeed table needs to be at the same height as the tablesaw which is about 2 inches lower than I'd ideally like a workbench to be. In reality, I can't say I notice the diffence when switching between benches.
Good luck, Mike
Mike,
What a great piece and video. Thank you!
And what beautiful cherry! Mine seems always half sapwood and 5" wide. Where did you get it?
Finally, I see you used Titebond II - not III. Reason?
Chris
Hi Chris, I know what you mean about sappy cherry. I actually found this at my local lumber yard, which was a bit of a surprise. When I need really nice cherry for a project, I often order from Irion Lumber in Pennsylvania and have it shipped to me. I've never been disappointed by anything they've sent and the prices are comparable to my local sources.
I typically use Titebond II unless I need a longer open time or need a more waterproof bond. I always use Titebond III when making cutting boards.
Also, Titebond III dries with a brown glue line which is great for darker woods, but not so great for light woods like pine or maple. Cherry can really go either way.
Mike
I can't seem to find the advertised plans. Really all I need is the cutting list. Where can I get this, please?
Bill
Mike, what finish did you use on the cherry and how do you get the pine to match the cherry color? thanks.
Mike
Good Evening! I am building the chimney cupboard. I am currently coating the frame and panel back and inside of the cabinet with dewaxed shellac. I know you said in the video that they would be finished with just a coat of dewaxed shellac and wax. Do I sand the coat of shellac before applying the coat of wax? If I do, what grit should I use? Thank you for your help!
Michael
Mike what size hinge did you use and I'm assuming both doors use the same hinge?Thursday September 17, 2015
A terrific piece! Where are the plans for this nice unit? I am a terminally ill 80 year old and I enjoy shaker style furniture and aminspired as well as fascinated by your work.
What would you do with the side panels if you only had 6" wide stock instead of 11" wide stock? I don't want to take away from the simplistic look of the piece.
Hi Michael,
Have you posted plans for this chimney cupboard? Can't see a link anywhere...
David
@dfolkerth, Plans are here:
Printed plan: https://www.tauntonstore.com/shaker-chimney-cupboard-printed-plan-011282.html
Digital plan with SketchUp model: https://www.tauntonstore.com/shaker-chimney-cupboard-digital-plan-michael-pekovich-065135.html
Michael,
You talked about the difference between figure and blotch. Your door panel had beautiful figuring and you said you didn't want to hide it with shellac. Could you explain? I thought shellac enhanced figuring, at least the transparent variety. Maybe a deep reddish-brown garnet shellac would not be advisable, especially on a photosensitive wood, which will darken on its own. I love using shellac for its sealing properties and for creating a base layer for doing cosmetic work with acrylic art paints when that is necessary.
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