Episode 6: Drawers
Videos in the Series
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Introduction: The Not-So-Big WorkbenchOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 1: MortisesOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 2: Tenons and Foot DetailsOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 3: Base Glue-UpOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 4: Workbench Tool Storage Pt. IOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 5: Workbench Tool Storage Pt. IIOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 6: DrawersOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 7: False Fronts and Drawer HardwareOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 8: BenchtopOctober 23, 2012
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Episode 9: Vise Installation and FinishOctober 23, 2012
Comments
Since you making several drawers can’t you cut multiple sides and ends at the same time?
When making your finger jointed boxes, what if you find the diagonal measurement off? What is your method to square them up? Squeeze them gently with the clamps along the long diagonal?
That is a highly recommended method. (Beats the heck out of screaming, cursing and beating it against the wall in anger and frustration.)
when setting up the test pieces the cut depth was the same as the oak square. However, when the drawer sides were being cut the depth was more than the oak guide piece--doesn't matter?? as long as both sides are the same?? just curious thanks
Why didn't you check for square before tightening the clamps? I've always been told to check the square first and then use the clamps to pull it square, if necessary.
On #6, you commented how long it took to cut all those finger joints. I've found I can cut the time almost in half by doubling up the pieces as I cut them.
1. Make the initial cut on the first piece, as you did
2. Flip it around and make the initial cut on the mating piece, as usual
3. Now mount both pieces over the index pin and make all the remaining cuts for that pair
The only prep difference is your index pin length needs to be 2x the material thickness. If the pin is straight and square to the jig back then both pieces are cut perfectly. If you choose to cut all your sides and then all the front/back pieces you can still cut fingers in two pieces at a time.
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