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Shop Talk Live 22: Handplane How-To
On this week’s edition of Shop Talk Live, we welcome Dyami Plotke and Rob Bois, of the Modern Woodworkers Association. Questions abound as we tackle queries on handplane technique, the appropriateness of compound miter saws in the workshop, and more!
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This week, we welcome Dyami Plotke and Rob Bois, of the Modern Woodworkers Association.
Comments
There is at least one other alternate to cross-cutting with an SCMS or sled - and that is the Festool TS-55 Track Saw and Rail.
Essentially any width - and any angle. Great finish top and bottom (assuming bottom is supported on a sacrificial sheet of insulation or CDX ply.)
Combine it with the MFT and its fence and miter gauge, and setup is easy - at least for me.
Why not revisit and discuss next ShopTalk Live?
Keep up the great shows!
P.S. - I use a non-sliding 10" chop saw ($99 Ryobi) for crosscuts up to 5 1/2". A simple machine - just pivots. No 'sloppy rails' whatever. Works great. Precise. Everything wider I use the TS-55.
A good option on the tension of the cap screw is to have a screwdriver on hand. set your blade and fasten down with the lever cap, then tighten the cap screw, a little. I think the industry term is 'snug'.
As to the old hand tools, Stanley being the most common, I found a source at the local flea market. Guys that both use and collect the tools. Good prices and good tools. They also serve as good source of info on these old tools. with that type of resource you quickly develop an eye for good tools. I found that the search for good tools gets a little addictive, looking for that diamond in the rough. Many of my tools took little more than 5 minutes to prep for use. For the price of one LN plane I have purchased many professional model planes. I can get to work instead of saving my pennies.
That being said, when I get rich and famous I'll gladly go to LN and LV to get my new tools.
a 10 " blade is more accurate than a 12" because there is less "deflection". I think a 12" blade is appropriate on a standard chop saw to acomadate crown.However anything that you can not cut on a slider standing up ,you can all ways cut on the flat.And so in that case a 10" saw is the way to go.I have a Bosch 10" slider and like it vary much.That being said it has limitations. I'm a journeymen carpenter, and in the field,the chop saw 's king when it comes to trim.But in the shop I seem to favor my table saw because of it precision and accuracy. My chop saw still has a place in my shop.Compound miters,rough cuts, repetitive cuts.But when accuracy counts, especially on wide pieces,I make my cuts on the table saw.
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