STL 135: Essential handsaws and apartment woodworking
Plus, the guys talk about finishing drawer sides, planing curly maple, and all-time favorite techniques and tools. They also answer an age-old question: How important is a fore plane?01:31 – Question 1:
I am a novice woodworker building my collection of basic hand tools. I need to get a handsaw, but there are so many out there and they all have different functions. Which hand saws do you consider essential to your work and which would you suggest for a beginner? -Drew
10:03 – Question 2:
My question is about finishing drawers, specifically, the outside of the drawer. Sometimes I will leave my drawer unfinished or often will give it just a coat or two of shellac. But on the outside of the drawer, I want to give it some finished to show off the dovetails. if I start finishing the entire side, it looks odd with the rest of the drawer box finished differently, especially if there is any color to the finish applied. What do you do for your case pieces? -Evan
13:45 – All Time Favorite Technique of All Time… for this week:
Ben – Mora #106 Sloyd Knife
Mike – Bob Van Dyke’s Tablesaw L-Fence
Tom – His “Bench that’s easy to make”
25:18 – Question 3:
When I first began building furniture last year, I purchased a #4 plane, but recently added a #6 and block plane to my toolbox. Since then, I have not touched the #4 and am considering selling it. I work in pine and cherry, and mill everything by hand. I sharpen daily and get great surfaces. The #6 is more comfortable and works well for every task, so will I ever need a narrower, shorter, and less massive plane? -Jordan
30:09 – Question 4:
I’m building a cabinet for my sister’s wedding gift. I have cherry face frames and two doors with cherry frames and curly maple panels. What is the best surface prep before shellacking the panels. I was planning to plane or card scrape it, but I’ve heard using a lower grit sand paper can help the figure pop. -Devin
35:50 – All Time Favorite Furniture of All Time… for this week
Mike – Opposing wedges
Ben – Using an allen wrench as a spacer block
Bob Van Dyke’s – Keyway Keys Guarantee Accuraracy
Tom – Using a spacer block to trim dowels to the perfect length
46:50 – Question 5:
I am going to not have access to my shop for about 5 months due to a move, and was wondering if you have ideas on how I can continue with some woodworking while living in an apartment with neighbors above, below and to the side of me, as well as a family that would appreciate not having too much woodworking stuff sitting around. I have considered learning and taking up spoon carving, and perhaps bowl carving, but was wondering if you have some additional ideas? -Zeke
Tom McKenna |
Michael Pekovich |
Ben Strano |
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Comments
I recently downsized to a condo in Chicago, and had to give up my previous basement shop. I found that the Parks Dept has several "wood shops" around the city for resident use. You get access to the shops by signing up for wood crafting courses -- though the course is really just open shop time.
Where's the video?
It was still processing. Up now.
Even better than an allen wrench would be a drill bit. They are perfectly sized and can act as a spacer or gauge block for dialing in bade or bit height.
Hi Zeke; i live in a tenement building also i have a spare room which i turned into a shop, and what i do is use my power tools before 8:00 P.M. so my neighbors don"t complain so much. i use my hand tools most of the time, to avoid unnecessary noise. i believe you can do it also just do not let your neighbors in you room/shop. Good Luck....
Zeke,
Look into turning pens and other small items on a mini lathe.
I saw the articles on the basic L-fence. Can you provide a sketch or more information on the "Cadillac" version and various attachments for it? Thank you.
Ben - I second John's comment - if you ever get a chance to circle back on this, it would be nice to see how some of the upgrades that you and Mike spoke of towards the end of that segment are implemented. It does not appear that they made it into the on-line article Tom mentioned.
Kudos to Bill Wilson for his contribution (https://www.finewoodworking.com/2015/03/25/speedier-l-fence-setup) - nice!
Log in or create an account to post a comment.
Sign up Log in