STL 148: Rust prevention and favorite jigs
Plus, the guys talk about the new issue, curved scrapers, prefinishing dos and don't, milling lumber for a workbench top, and dive into what perfection means09:38 – Question 1:
I have heard you promote pre-finishing before, and I have been doing this more and more. My question is how far do you go? I am hesitant to just finish inside or surfaces that have lots of angles without doing the outside for fear of warping or cupping. Would finishing the inside difficult surfaces completely and finish all but one coat on the outside be a smart option?
-Mike
14:05 – Question 2:
I just took a huge leap and bought a Sawstop. I ordered Boeshield t9 spray as well – so I could protect the cast iron. The saw arrived before the Boeshield t9, I got nervous and covered the cast iron with paste wax after assembly. Now the spray came, and I would like to use it to give my cast iron better long-term protection, but it’s covered in wax.
Do you think I could spray the Boeshield t9 over the wax? The moisture level in my shop is not consistent so I feel it’s important to protect my investment!
-Steve
20:39 – All Time Favorite JIG of All Time… for this week:
30:22 – Question 3:
I am planning to build the Not-So-Big Workbench, the cut list indicates lumber that has been milled to finish dimensions. When going to the lumber yard how much oversized to I need to buy the lumber. For example, the top is made of 2” Thick x 3 2 ¾” Wide x 60 in long. In order to have board that is milled to a finished thickness of 2” do I need to start with a 12/4 rough sawn board? In general, how thick should rough sawn boards be when planning for finished milled dimensioned lumber?
-Will
36:15 – Question 4/Segment 2 Deep Dive:
What does clean, accurate joinery really look like? Sometimes it seems that you spend 98% of your time in the shop on setup in order to make sure that every is absolutely perfect. It just seems like keeping tablesaw cuts in plane when you aren’t moving the fence at all wouldn’t be an issue.
-Amy (via instagram)
48:20 – Question 5:
Do you have any suggestions for getting a burr on curved scrapers?
-Scott
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| Tom McKenna Editorial Director |
Mike Pekovich Creative Director |
Matt Kenney Special Projects Editor |
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Comments
I think you need to check the URL for the sweepstakes. I entered it and came back with "page not found"
(finewoodworking.com/Sweeps)
Argg! That's entirely my fault. It should be https://www.finewoodworking.com/sweepstakes
I'll get another redirect set up.
As a caution, you may want to reserve more than ten minutes for a discussion of "jig" vs. "fixture". I worked in a machine design department for some years and two sister departments were responsible for designing jigs and fixtures for the factory, respectively. The arguments and political wrangling over which was which (jig vs. fixture) and who had the right to design what were endless. No one could ever come up with a clear definition. Make sure there's plenty of good coffee on hand before going down this rabbit hole.
We WANNA HEAR MORE ABOUT THIS!!!!!! Stories!!!
Hi - I didn’t catch the name of the product Michael Fortune recommends for slipperiness / glue release?
Waxilit
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