STL194: New-Fangled Finishes
Mike, Anissa, and Ben discuss clamp-up times, getting a consistent matte finish, low V.O.C. oil finishes, designing with CAD and Fusion360, and of course, they swap this week’s All Time Favorite TechniquesDanish Modern Desk with Tim Rousseau
Question 1:
From Devin:
Over the years of listening to your show, reading Fine Woodworking, and watching instructional videos, I’ve heard a million different suggestions for how long to let a glue-up sit before you take the clamps off. Ranging from “a little while” -whatever that is?- to overnight, and everything in between. Do you guys have any good rules of thumb for drying time?
Question 2:
From the Fine Woodworking forum by forum member NewAndGreen:
I’d like to apply a water based topcoat to two white oak chairs I’ve sanded. I was interested in using General Finishes water-based topcoat, but don’t know if I should go with the flat or the satin finish. I have read that GF’s satin is shinier than most. Is that true? (I put a coat of Minwax Satin Polycrylic on one and liked the look, but I’m looking for a better product .) I know I don’t want to start mixing. (I’ve already over-complicated the process!) I also know I don’t want a glossy look and not a totally matte look. Ugh. Pictures of two parts of chair attached for reference. Thanks in advance for your advice/thoughts to this new and green refinisher!
Question 3:
Also from Paul:
I have not heard Rubio Monocoat or Osmo mentioned on the podcast. Have any of you tried Monocoat? Being in the industry professionally myself, and, seeing what other pros are using, Monocoat and Osmo seem to be the two go-to products that many professionals use as their primary oil finish (they’re like the BMW and Mercedes of woodworking it seems). Any experience and/or recommendations there?
- Osmo oil: durable, easy to use, and non-toxic
- Tips and Tricks For Getting A Sheen From an Oil Finish
Price of Osmo Polyx Oil at time of broadcast: .75-Liter=$58.56
Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique of All Time
Mike: Tom McLaughlin’s “cut some off and glue it on the other side” technique
Anissa: Steve Latta’s hinged flips stop
Ben: Using metal files to shape difficult woods
Question 4:
From Brendan:
I can’t draw by hand at all. Not even a little. My 3rd grade drawings look every bit as good as my current attempts. On STL180, you talked about design for about 30 minutes without mentioning cad as a design medium. I know it’s a scary topic but as a resolution at least one of you should try to design a furniture piece down to the jointery on your computer. The learning curve can be steep but I find that designing on the computer allows me to virtually build the piece without creating any sawdust.
And from Paul:
I don’t know that I’ve ever heard Fusion 360 mentioned on the podcast. I used Sketchup for several years and loved it… however, a few years ago a landed a very complicated project (with cnc work involved), and came to the realization I needed something more sophisticated. Fusion 360 is now such a huge part of my business and can’t imagine ever going back to Sketchup. Having parametric capabilities now seems absolutely necessary. Have any of you ever tried it?
Recommendations:
Anissa – Ted Talk – Rives: The Museum of Four in the Morning
Ben – The Woodworkers Podcast and luthiery podcast Omo
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Comments
Another great podcast. I’m with Anissa in that I don’t change finishes or even try computer assisted drawing programs because I’d rather be out in my shop. The latter is a little unusual in that I use computers for almost everything else. I’ve used lacquer for so many years that I’m almost afraid to try anything else but that is starting to change. I’m realizing that there are other finishes that may be even better but like Mike I’m not a fan of water base finishes. Once I get my workbench build I know I’ll need to try something other than lacquer on it. I’d love to learn Fusion 360 but just haven’t gotten started. Maybe during the heat of the summer this year when my shop is too hot I’ll give it a try.
Ben, have you discovered the source of the double stick tape that was mentioned in the podcast?
BTW — I’m loving the new Unlimited Membership.
Don Bullock - WB Fine Woodworking
“[Deleted]”
Love the podcast! I have a roll of the double sided tape you all were discussing (based on your description), and I believe I got it from lee valley. They call it turner's tape. Check it out and see if that's the one...
I have listened to all of your podcasts and learn something new every time. Loved the independent opinions on some of the new finishes and discussion of future articles on the subject.
I've been using the same double sided tape in woodworking for 25 years. It came from my other hobby, back in the day. I built and repaired golf clubs. Grip tape sounds very similar to your description. It's thin and rigid, has a good sheer strength and will not pull wood fibers when removed. The backing sounds similar to your description on the podcast. It comes in 3/4" to 2" roles at a reasonable price. Not hard to find on the internet. One caution, it is used with solvent in the golf industry, to make it more permanent. For woodworking, use it dry. Backing is easy to peel and leaves no glue residue if you do not wet it. Give it a try.
Listened to the Ted Talk - thanks. It was great
Shellac is not a green finish. It has one of the highest amount of VOC's of any finish. It is mainly denatured alcohol and a small amount of solids.
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