STL201: Friends Don’t Let Friends Go Metric
Mike and Ben discuss first handplane purchases, tool chest construction, calipers, sourcing riftsawn oak, and English-style tablesaw fences. And Mike tries to talk Ben out of switching to metric.This episode is brought to you by Maverick Abrasives.
Question 1:
From James:
I’ve been woodworking for several years, but I am just now beginning to incorporate hand tools in my work. I mainly use reclaimed antique long-leaf pine, running it through my jointer and planer, then I use a belt sander and random orbital sander to get to a finish surface. I’d like to eliminate some of the sanding and use a handplane. Can I go from the planer straight to a smoothing plane, or should I use something larger first like the 7 or 8? I don’t currently own any hand planes so any advice on what to buy would help.
Question 2:
From Tommy:
I would like to build Mike’s ‘famous’ hanging tool chest, but with frame and panel construction. I think it’s awesome as is, but frame and panel construction with plywood panels seems to be more in my budget. How can I securely join the panels together for such a heavy piece in my small, mostly hand tool shop?
Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool
Ben – Digital calipers
Mike – His new smaller, essential toolchest
Question 3:
From Matt:
I love the look of Chris Gochnour’s sideboard in FWW #277, have added it to the must-build list. I wondered if you had any tips for sourcing rift-sawn white oak. Is it just a matter of getting the widest possible flat sawn boards and gluing the outer portions into a panel? Would the rip-and-flip method on a thicker board be realistic for a piece this size?
Build a Contemporary SideboardChris Gochnour’s sideboard combines usefulness, strength, and beauty in a contemporary case piece |
Question 4:
From David:
When I’m ripping on my tablesaw I use an English style fence – which is nothing more than an auxiliary board that I mount on my fence with t-bolts and ends at the center of the blade. Doing this virtually eliminates kick-back, because after your workpiece is cut, it can not be pinched between the fence and the back of the blade.
Most of my woodworking buddies have never heard of this, and I have never seen it in photos within articles in Fine Woodworking. This seems to me to be something that would be standard in most shops. Is there some reason that most woodworkers in North America don’t use this system? Is there a loss of accuracy, or a safety issue that I’m not aware of? If so, I’d like to know so I can stop doing it, if not then I’d like to hear your guesses as to why this isn’t more widely used.
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Comments
Mike, I hate maple too. It's the worst. Also, thank you guys again for an epic weekend at Hands On San Diego. It's currently 77 degrees and beautiful here, but I can also smell smoke, so count your blessings!
Where's Mike's special pottery cup (the one with no handle)? I haven't seen it during the last few podcasts. It's a nice art piece.
Dave
You didn't mention MY go-to tool in the shop... Imperial FRACTIONAL Dial Calipers from Woodcraft! Love them!! (I agree digital imperial is weird...)
Metric! Good for you Ben. Welcome to the land of no numerators and denominators.
A big advantage of imperial is that its easy, visually, to divide a gap into half then quarter then eighth so this suits the imperial system. Its much more difficult to divide into 10ths or 5ths.
Gentlemen,
During your discussion on hand plane selection in podcast 201, there was a comment about ruining the blade sharpness after a piece has been sanded before final finish. Please explain why.
Love the podcast, thank you.
Gale Hultquist
Eden, New York
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