Dovetailing on the Table Saw

Comments

1. 
   Woodreb | Dec 24, 2019 02:20pm | #1

   I can appreciate that using the tablesaw to cut the dovetails is pretty fast compared to hand cut. However, where does one get a specially ground blade? And what if you want to do something other than the 8.5°, do you get multiple blades ground? Seems to be a pricey thing for a hobbiest.

2. 
   user-7238773 | Dec 24, 2019 03:22pm | #2

   I can see shares in the 8.5degree saw blade company skyrocketing.

3. 
   Joe_Jaszczak | Dec 25, 2019 07:58am | #3

   You can buy that blade straight from Forrest. Or you can buy a FTG blade and have it sharpened that way. I think most of the time people just use one bevel angle.

4. 
   Sharper802 | Dec 25, 2019 06:03pm | #4

   It's not that expensive to get them ground. And it's a good use for the stock saw blade that comes with your saw. Most folks upgrade their blade to a Forrest or a thin kerf.

   LOL - Forrest website is already saying they have an unexpected increase in demand. The new Pekovich Effect

5. 
   user-3193840 | Dec 26, 2019 04:32pm | #5

   Hello Mike thanks for the table saw dovetail demonstration. Looks like a cool way to get an accurate dovetail with a narrow opening on the tail. unlike the tail opening on a router cut tail.

6. 
   rfickas | Dec 27, 2019 01:54pm | #6

   https://www.forrestblades.com/saw-blades-for-finger-joints-square-cut-box-joints-rabbets-grooves-and-dovetails/10-custom-woodworker-ii-saw-blade-for-dovetail-cut-40-teeth/

7. 
   user-7238773 | Dec 27, 2019 04:21pm | #7

   Yes, as predicted ... “Please Note before you place your order: Due to an unexpectedly high volume of orders, you may experience a shipping delay. We will notify you of your expected shipping date after we process your order.”

   I hope Mr P is getting something for his sales assistance: I will just have to go to my local blademaster in Townsville should I feel the need.

8. 
   IdleWoodWorkshop | Dec 29, 2019 09:31am | #8

   I messaged Mike to see if he would recommend 8.5 degrees or if he would pick a different angle blade and this is what he said.

   "I ordered an 8 degree blade, but it turned out closer to 8.5, which is not a problem. It's a somewhat shallow angle because I cut a lot of dovetails in thicker casework. A school I teach at has 10 degree blades which are fine as well."

   After doing some research online I've found pictures showing the difference of angles with their respective ratios.

   10 degrees = 1:6
   12 degrees = 1:5
   14 degrees = 1:4

   By that logic 8 degrees would be 1:7 which as Mike said is slightly shallow. Most dovetail guides offer 1:6 for softwoods or 1:8 for hardwoods.

   *Picture credit to David Barron Furniture

   
9. 
   Zolton | Dec 31, 2019 08:35am | #9

   I have always wondered why Forrest produces this blade in a ten inch configuration. It could easily be made from an eight inch blank because you're not making a very deep cut with it. A smaller blade might save a few bucks - less material, fewer teeth.

   As an alternative to dropping $166 for the Forrest model, some years ago I used a diamond wheel on a Dremel to roughly fashion the beveled teeth on an old 7-1/4 inch blade I had for a circular saw. It actually worked pretty well, and I used it for a number of dovetailed drawers.

   Zolton

10. 
    locketim | Dec 31, 2019 10:02pm | #10

    Thanks Mike for the dove tail technique.
    Ridge Carbide Tool Co also makes a dovetail saw blade. Delivery was quick. Ordered on line, Ridge called the next business day to be sure I wanted right tilt (yes old Unisaw). 3 days later the new blade arrived to the angle requested and I am building a dresser with Mike’s techniques

11. 
    19dean59 | Jan 01, 2020 06:22pm | #11

    Where did you get that multi dividers. I check Garrett Wade and Lee Valley couldn’t find it. But if you ask my wife I never Can find anything.

12. 
    OlyWoodTech | Jan 02, 2020 11:11am | #12

    The closest I can find is the M-Power point 2 point. https://www.m-powertools.com/point-2-point-mk2-layout-divider.html

    
1. 
   flyfisher111 | Sep 05, 2022 11:21am | #19

   Rockler is now (9/2022) carrying it :

   https://www.rockler.com/m-power-point-2-point-mk2-layout-tool?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI987K8fj9-QIVTWxvBB1rcQegEAQYAiABEgLIuPD_BwE

13. 
    19dean59 | Jan 02, 2020 11:54am | #13

    Thank you those will work fine

14. 
    MPekovich | Jan 03, 2020 09:53pm | #14

    A cheaper alternative to the Forrest blade is to buy a flat-top rip blade and have it sharpened to the angle you want. I just bought a thin kerf Freud blade for around 45 dollars that I plan to have ground for skinny dovetail pins.

15. 
    RotaryRick | Jan 05, 2020 09:01am | #15

    I've got one from old Bridge City Toolworks. The new Bridge City Toolworks does not seem to have one. I found one for $11 on Amazon by searching "dividers" in "tools and home improvement." The search for multidividers didn't find it, but found dozens with cutting wheels on them for bakers. Apparently crust strips is a thing.

16. 
    abq_rbl63 | Jan 16, 2020 09:25pm | #16

    My local sharpener charged $25 to grind a Freud 8" full kerf rip blade at a ten degree angle, which cost $50. Just make sure to specify left or right tilt TS. Also, I think you need to be careful when using anything but a 10" blade on a sawstop.

17. 
    user-5562046 | Jan 23, 2020 07:08am | #17

    Another alternative is the “DCT equal space divider”, if you search for this you can find it on multiple shopping sites for about 30 dollars. I didn’t post a link because I don’t want to choose one vendor over the other. The advantage of this one over the MK2 is 4 nuts vs 2.

18. 
    keownk1 | Sep 13, 2020 11:14am | #18

    Mike: I'm mystified about why you left the tiny nibs in the gaps between the tails. These could have been removed by offsetting the board a trifle and making an additional pass over the blade.

19. 
    flyfisher111 | Sep 05, 2022 11:28am | #20

    I use the technique, but have not bothered with the beveled tooth blade. I simply set the depth 1/16" low and chop out the waste to the base line. I usually hand cut dovetails, so its not a significant chore.

    For cutting small box joints, I had an old 60 tooth blade reground flat. Rip blades are ground flat, but the 60 tooth gives me perfect cuts without any splinters. I recall the cost being $17, as he didn't need to sharpen the blade.