STL213.5: The Bob Van Dyke show
Contributing editor Bob Van Dyke gets the show to himself answering questions about pre-finishing, constructing built-ins, and creating a profile on a curved edge without a router.Question 1:
From Chase:
Hey guys/gal – recently I have been making larger case pieces. I live in West Virginia andI have been bringing case parts inside for prefinishing due to shop temperature and lack of dust. However, while putting polyurethane on the inside face of each panel, I am experiencing cupping. While I am familiar with WHY this happens, is it preventable? The stock IS dry, should I leave the pieces in my unheated shop and just deal with the lower temps, and likely slower drying times?
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Question 2:
From Larry:
I am building some built-in bookcases. What’s a good method for attaching the top bookcases to the countertop of the base cabinets? This is a key question for me since I have no earthly idea what method would work best for stability and longevity.
As I see it these are my options:
- Biscuits
- Screws from underneath (placement could be problematic)
- Selby Keyhole
- Cleats joining the cabinet and shelf backs
Question 3:
From Bojan:
I’ve never used an L Fence before so I am not certain if this would work and could use a little guidance.
I am making a pair of nightstands inspired by Phil Morley’s dining table from issue #275. The top on his table has a shape that is not perfectly square but has a slight curve on each edge and Phil routes a profile on his table top with a central bearing thumbnail bit that I cannot seem to get in Canada (at a reasonable price). Now, I know there are many router bit profiles but the ones I think would look good for this tend to be pricey and I am trying to avoid going too far down the rabbit hole of router bits at this stage. I’m still in the early stages of this journey and there are a lot of other tools I need to buy so, I am looking at other options for the profile.
I am thinking of creating a large bevel on the bottom with an acute angle and a 45 degree chamfer on the top. ( so the top would have about a 1/4 inch chamfer with about a 1/4 flat section and them a larger, more acute, bevel on the bottom) I am having a hard time figuring out how to make that bottom bevel without making a jig to hold the router at an angle. I feel the jig would also give me some trouble due to the shape I’d have to follow.
Could I use the L Fence to cut along that curved top with the blade at an angle to get my bottom bevel? (let’s say 30 deg for the sake of the argument) Since you can use the fence for mitered corners, I know it would work if my piece were straight but, will the saw have a problem following a gentle curve without any safety issues? The curve is subtle but should I be concerned about trying to push the piece through the blade following it?
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For a Sanding Block that Fits Perfectly, Use Auto-Body FillerA recent job called for me to mill a short run of custom molding to match an existing profile. I roughed out the profile on the tablesaw, but needed a… |
Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Comments
Ben why is your video mirror imaged? It is driving me nuts.
It's a recording of my screen. When you're video chatting, your screen is always mirrored.
More Van Dike, More Van Dike, More Van Dike, More Van Dike.
The .5 should be “The War Stories, (screw the tabletop to the floor), lost editions.” That is woodworking, not the plaid shirt, phony tool wall set, cue card reading, piston fit dovetail videos.
Keep up the good work, Ben.
Thanks for a great show Bob & Ben.
Bob Van Dyke discussing a Philip Morley dining table design detail was great.
After listening to some of the questions so many people would benefit from realtime instruction.
I’ve been able to take 2 classes at CT Valley School of woodworking and I learned more in a morning than year of hanging in my shop. Some 1 day classes are under $200. It’s worth the money to save years of time and frustration.
I recommend to anyone to join a local Woodworking guild, or take a class at a woodworking school in person or even online ( as long as you can interact with Your instructor). My skill and confidence was increased and my time in the shop more enjoyable. Stay safe.
Every built-in unit (cabinet or bookcase) that I have built has been anchored to the studs. I have generally used screws to connect an upper section to a lower section. But the connection to the building is essential in Southern California where an earthquake can topple a unit and kill or injure a person. Anywhere you live, a climbing child or a careless adult can also tip over a dresser, book case or other tall piece. I think it takes more than gravity to make it safe.
I love the "Van Dyke" family photo with Laura and Ritchie!
Oh, and the podcast was good too.
Ben, are the ~7 links about the L-fence supposed to be here, or on other episodes? I just want to be sure I have read them all!
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