Question 1: 

From Dave:

I recall editors on the podcast remarking that drill presses are good candidates for buying used: What essential specs should we be limiting our search around? Are their lemons we should be sure to avoid? What common points of failure exist, and how do we inspect a used drill press? (I imagine this could be a good Rollie Johnson article).

	Get More From Your Drill Press The right bits, jigs, and techniques turn a metalworking tool into a versatile machine for woodworking
	Level up your drill press These jigs, accessories, and tricks for your drill press will let this must-have tool work even better.
	Tuning Your Drill Press How to find and eliminate vibration, play and wobble

Question 2:

From Andrew:

My table saw can be wired for 110 or 220. Right now I have it on 110. I have space in my breaker box for a 220 breaker and I can add one at no cost. Would it be worth the effort to up my saw to 220? I really don’t have problems with it stalling and it seems to have ample power. Is there a real benefit that I will notice? It’s a Grizzly 10” contractor saw.

And another about 220v 110L:

From Matt: 

I have three pieces of equipment set up for 240V in my shop but I only have one 240V plug. I’m getting tired of plugging in and unplugging extension cords. The lathe and the band saw, can be rewired for 120V and there’s a 20A plug right beside each of them. Is there any advantage one way or the other? Will I be giving up some power, efficiency, or durability of the equipment if I rewire them to 120V? 

Power Primer Electric motors in the woodshop

Segment: All-Time Favorite 

Mike – Steam bending

Ben – Long feeler gauges

Rollie – 

	A closer look at Rollie’s budget vacuum pump How to clamp and press on a woodworker’s budget
	Shopmade Vacuum Clamps Hold darned near anything using atmosphere!

 

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Question 3:

From Chase:

I recently attempted to restore two Bailey planes I found at an estate sale. While using electrolysis to remove some rust, I crossed the cables in reverse which caused all of the rust to accumulate ON the planes. When I rectified the error, all of the rust being removed from the planes caused severe (if you’re cringing inside, imagine how I feel). 

Is the pitting going to affect the usability of the tools, or is this strictly a cosmetic defect? I am most concerned about the areas around the mouth, etc… I do have plenty of other planes to use, and I don’t want to sink a bunch of time into these if it is futile.

	3 Methods For Removing Rust Rollie Johnson demonstrates how to remove rust from your tools and keep it at bay
	Cleaning Up A Rusty Tool Rusty tools are a problem for every woodworker at some point, in this video we’ll show you how to make that problem go away
	The Best Rust Preventers New protectants thrashed old favorites

Question 4:  

From Robert:
I’ve been wondering why planer manufacturers don’t provide two infeed and two outfeed rollers to help eliminate snipe.  With two points of contact from overhead, it would theoretically keep the stock flat to the table regardless of where the stock is in the process.  I would also assume that this arrangement would be coupled with a rigid one-piece table with sufficient length on either side of the rollers, not counting any extension wings.

 For benchtop planers, I suppose this would make the tool larger, and maybe the dual rollers would have to have some distance apart to overcome any lifting force of the cutter head.

	How to Avoid Planer Snipe on Short Stock Learn how to avoid snipe when planing short stock by lengthening your wood.
	Shopmade Planer Table Low-cost, adjustable table prevents snipe

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Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.