This episode is sponsored by Titebond, Pony/Jorgensen, and Garrett Wade

Question 1:

From Aaron:
I’m building a box with a hinged top. When looking for hinges, I ran across stop hinges from Horton Brass that are essentially normal butt hinges but stop at 95 degrees. This seemed like a good idea so I ordered a pair. The same type of hinge is also available from Brusso and others.

Now that I have them, I noticed a few things that I didn’t expect: they are square at the back instead of round (this is how the stop mechanism works), and they require more clearance when opening than butt hinges without the stop functionality.

This means that they have to stick out significantly from the back of the box, and in addition they have a square back-end which is rather unsightly.

Am I missing something here, or is this how they’re supposed to work? Or is there a better way? I searched the FWW website but didn’t find much in regards to stop hinges.

Pick the Perfect Hinges for Your Boxes The right choice will help you design and build better boxes.

Question 2:

From Joel Fägerholt in Finland:
Black (or blackened?) wood is one of the best looks I know. So far I’ve only tried dissolved iron on oak and am curious of other methods. I have lots of birch and maple so that won’t work on those. Which ones are the easiest and most convenient ways/techniques/products you know of?

	Ebonizing Wood This steel wool and vinegar method for ebonizing wood is appropriate whether you want a dark, graphic look or tones of gray, blue, and purple
	Oxidizing Wood with Steel Wool and Vinegar This process yields beautiful grays, blues, and purples on maple.
	Ebonizing Oak with Steel Wool and Vinegar Create a dark, graphic look that emphasizes the form of a piece.

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Segments:

Barry’s Technique: Using story sticks on his bench build

Sturdy, knock-down workbench Clever construction makes small work of big joints

Ben’s Smooth Move: Ripping the tolex on a project he’s about to ship to a customer

Mike’s Technique: Blowing everyone’s minds with his techniques for using templates to notching dividers

Question 3:

From Lisa:
Hey! Love the show. It always makes me feel like I’m sitting with the crew at the lunch break room table, laughing and learning bits along the way. Thanks for making the woodworking journey shared and accessible. It makes me feel like I have coworkers while I’m alone in my shop. Haha

I’m building a painted coffee bar (aka basic cabinet with legs) for some friends. My experience is mostly in building with solid wood like black walnut, maple, white oak, etc. and finishing with a rubbed oil or sprayed lacquer. So this painted situation is where my woes come in.

How do you suggest I paint the doors to prevent the paint from cracking due to wood movement? I’m making floating shaker panel doors—plywood panels and poplar frames. I plan on priming the panels before assembly and painting the doors. They will be white. But then what? There are drastically opposing opinions online. Do I caulk the panel in place and then paint? Do I need spacer balls? Do I paint and then slice the paint with a razor blade to separate panel from door frame? I live in Atlanta, so humidity is a way of life, and I’m building this now, in the summer.

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Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.