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Question 1:
From Kevin
I’m interested in diving into some bent lamination and veneer work in the future and was wondering if you had a recommendation for a starting size of a vacuum bag that may cover the basics. I’m thinking of veneer panels and smaller bent pieces like chair backs and doors. I already have a vacuum pump for a stabilizing pot for turning blanks, so I’m just looking for the bag itself. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for a great show and my favorite magazine related to woodworking!

Question 2:
From Bill
I’ve always used my hardware store coping saw to cut my poplar/pine/MDF baseboards and crown moldings.

I recently bought a fancy fret saw — not super-duper blow-a-paycheck fancy, but fancy for me. I dream about wasting out hardwood dovetails and maybe cutting out some fancy bracket feet for a chest of drawers that I will probably never build.

However, here’s my question. which way are the coping/fret saw blades supposed to face — towards the handle or the front? Is this a push cut or a pull cut? Should I be using those fancy blades that have teeth that face opposite ways?
Is it different for a coping saw compared to a fret saw? does blade orientation depend on the thickness of the material?

I haven’t noticed much of a difference either way for myself, but maybe there is a “right way” in this case?

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Question 3:
From Robert:
Thanks to Ben for the video comparing the 3 strengths of ammonia relative to fuming oak, and thanks to Chris Gochnour for his related article in issue 282. I’ve never done this before, so I’m a bit apprehensive. First I tried a bunch of samples using the household strength stuff. Even after two weeks, the darkening color change was somewhat subtle. Then I got 10% janitorial strength and it was crazy! 2 days darkened the wood beyond the darkest walnut. I’m finding that 6 to 12 hours on my samples gives a rich brown. But here’s the rub: My project wood is not all from the same tree, or even the same source, perhaps not even the same species (white oak? Swamp white oak? Coastal white oak?), so am I likely to wind up with a variety of shades on the final piece? Perhaps I should fume the pieces individually before assembly so that I take some pieces out earlier and leave other pieces to fume to the same shade? Am I overthinking this?

Instagram accounts to follow:
@ksullivanrestoration
@chem.thug

Vic’s band recommendation:
BadBadNotGood

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Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to [email protected] for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.