When attaching solid tops to traditional casework, the common approach is to elongate the screw holes in the back of the cabinet but not the front. This sends any expansion or contraction to the back edge, where it is less noticeable—at least in theory. But when the back edges of the top and the cabinet are flush, as on a Queen Anne lowboy I was building, I do the opposite, sending the movement to the front, where the overhang hides it. To do this, I elongate the attachment holes along the sides and front edge, and use regular-size holes at the back edge.

—Jim Murtha, Lancaster, Ohio