Joinery - Page 55 of 69

I'd like to thank Ken Wall, whose single-sided vertical miter jig (Fine Woodworking #80, p. 16) inspired this double-sided version. The two-sided jig is even better because its accuracy is…

This jig, which I designed to cut mitered biscuit slots with a router, has eliminated my struggles with miter joints. It consists of a hardwood base, which bolts to my…

Much of the furniture I make is based on mitered frames, which require corners that have to meet perfectly. To make these frames, I use a sliding table jig on…

This simple jig has but one purpose: to help in cutting a glue relief slot in regular lumberyard dowels. To make the jig, simply drill a couple of dowel-sized holes…

A design for sofas and chairs our shop recently built specified that the arms be attached to the front legs by wedged through tenons. I solved the problem of cutting…

Inspired by Ken Picou's loose-tenon joinery and Ross Day's shop-built mortiser (Fine Woodworking #98, p. 46), I turned my drill press into a mortiser by adapting a cross-slide vise. I…

With this fixture, you can produce perfectly sized mortises with glass-smooth walls and ends. The process is much slower than using a hollow-chisel mortiser, but the results are superior. Use…

To pin mortise-and-tenon joints in a table frame, lay out the mortise location on a piece of 3/4-in. scrap the width of the table leg. Then drill two holes using…

Richard Fryklund's budget-conscious plate-joinery jig (Fine Woodworking #75, p. 12) inspired the jig shown above. This jig incorporates a series of scallops along both edges of a piece of Baltic-birch…

Here's a router-table technique for producing clean, precise pocket holes for joining face-frame members. First, construct a wooden cradle fitted with a lever-operated toggle clamp. The cradle angles the workpiece…