Am building a pool table and am attempting to avoid the cost of buying a slate bed. I need a recomendation on how to make the smoothest hardest 1 1/2″ thick surface possible from wood based products.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Being an old pool shooter, I think it would be a waste of time and materials not to use slate. I know that's not what you asked but the sound, feel and action will be very different without slate. You'll still be paying for the bumpers, felt and all the other materials and your time will be similar if you want a full size table. Here is a blog from a table builder and sources of supply.
http://www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm
ctbjrb
Live oak is the hardest wood commonly available in the sizes you'll need, but don't do it!
If you are really tight for money buy some particle board and use that.. it's the best compromise and cheapest.. two pieces of 3/4 inch particle board will get you what you seek.
later when your ship comes in you can replace it with slate.
Very much appreciate your thoughts on particleboard. Would this be better than MDF?
MDF or even better HDF would work far better than board with larger particles, but even that really won't compare to slate...
Particle board is good Frenchy. It is available in 1 1/8" thickness. This is what is used on the high end of the low end pool tables. I once had a summer job when I was a student assembling these tables. JL
Cast a bed using concrete. Use a piece of melamine as the mold surface. The concrete will come out with the same surface texture but with some bung holes where air got trapped. It's an easy job to fill the holes with a cement paste. Use bagged 5000 psi mix available at the local home center or building supply. Throw in a bit of fiber or wwf if you've got it. This is an easy and inexpensive thing to do and it may give the equivalent of slate. ( I'm not a player.)
Years ago, Sears had a pool table with a "honeycomb" top that they touted as equivalent to slate. It was basically early mdf. It was flat, and it was stable, but the first time you bounced a phenolic ball on the surface, you had a dent. You know what that will do to a two ball combination three rail in the side pocket shot. Use slate. The money you save wont be worth the disappointment.
Luck
Steve
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled