Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Jul 03, 2021 09:49am | #1

   I searched the model and it looks like a kit with a regular and a plunge base. I assume you are using the plunge base. From the photos I saw the fixed base will get you lower, probably the basis for B's depth claim. The plunger is a better choice for the breadboards, I would suggest a longer bit, preferably an upcut spiral.

2. 
   mikaol | Jul 03, 2021 09:53am | #2

   A 1-1/2" tenon is a bit extreme. That would make the tenon 1-1/2" as well. That means, mathematically, you're using with 3" thick wood. How thick is the wood you're working with?

1. 
   shane0817 | Jul 03, 2021 09:59am | #3

   I’m using 1” stock. I had heard using tenons that are half the length of your mortise workpiece. I’m learning too so I’m open to suggestions.

   Unfortunately, I don’t have a longer bit at this point. I’ve already pulled the bit out of the collet past the recommended length to see if I could get it to go further.

3. 
   mikaol | Jul 03, 2021 10:03am | #4

   Half the thickness.

1. 
   shane0817 | Jul 03, 2021 10:14am | #5

   Sorry, I may have miscommunicated. My mortise piece is 1” thick and 3” wide. My understanding was the tenon length should be at least 1/2 of the mortise width, making my tenon 1 1/2” long. I just couldn’t get my router to plunge that deep when I feel like it should

   
4. 
   mikefm101 | Jul 03, 2021 10:57am | #6

   1” Tenon will be plenty enough. A passage door I’d agree the longer tenon but a table isn’t stressed the same way as a door.

   Many of the traditional tenon length guidance were created before modern glues which are stronger than the wood itself. Kitchen cabinets have cope and stick doors that never fail as the glue is so good now.

   If it’s an enclosed mortise so it isn’t visible on the ends make its depth 1-1/8” just to give you some room for excess glue and wood movement.

   One tip is keep the breadboard end piece several inches longer while fitting it so you have a section you can whack with a mallet to get it off the tenon. Final length is cut just prior to putting glue on the middle third only for expansion/contraction of the top.

   Mike

1. 
   shane0817 | Jul 03, 2021 11:59am | #9

   I really like the suggestion of making the mortise piece longer so I can get it back off after the dry fit. Unfortunately, I already cut that piece down so I’ll have to do that on my next project. I didn’t even think about that

5. 
   EdWeber | Jul 03, 2021 11:01am | #7

   I have to say this first, make the cut on several passes. Don't try to cut a mortise that deep and wide in one pass.
   I would also suggest getting a spiral up-cut bit with a 2" cutting length. Spiral for cleaner sidewall cuts, up-cut to pull the chips and debris out of the mortise and more cutting length so you can make the mortise a small amount deeper than the tenon. This ensures the tenon does not bottom out and you get a tight fit, especially if draw boring.

6. 
   shane0817 | Jul 03, 2021 11:45am | #8

   Thank you both for the advice. I’m doing the tenon length at 1”. I just finished one side of the table using the router taking off 1/8” at a time. I would love to get a spiral up cut bit but don’t have one yet. It’s on my list! With 1” stock, I was going to make my mortise 1/2” thick.