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I AM TRYING TO FIND A FINISH THAT WILL SET THE RAY FLECKS APART FROM THE REST OF THE FIGURE. I’D LIKE TO SEE THE WOOD A DARK BROWN WITH THE RAYS STAYING A BLONDE COLOR.
I’VE TRIED A PIGMENT BASED STAIN: THIS SEEMS TO POOL IN THE PORES HEAVILY.
I’VE TRIED A WATER BASED ANALINE DYE: THIS COLORS EVERYTHING.
I’VE READ THAT A FUMED AMMONIA FINISH WILL DARKEN ALL ,BUT THE RAYS BUT I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH FUMING.
DAVID JOYNER
Replies
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Could you shout just a little more. Disengage your cap lock key please.
*Good answer, Gretch. Very helpful too.David, in chat rooms and on message boards it is considered "shouting" when you type using capitol letters.It sounds like you are trying for Mission Style finish, am I correct? I would recommend against fuming, especially if one has not done it before, extremely hazardous to your health. While I have my own formula for a Mission finish, click on this: http://www.homesteadfinishingprod./mission_oak.htm , hope this helps.Dano
*David,Try this one.http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/mission_oak.htmthe rev
*David,Sorry about the bad link, The Rev got it right though.Dano
*Thanks to those of you who provided pertinent responses to my dilemma. My goal is to produce as dramatic a contrast,between the ray fleck and the rest of the figure, as possible.GRETCHEN I HAVE FOUND THAT IT IS MORE COURTEOUS TO TYPE WITH CAPS. BECAUSE THE FONTS ARE EASIER TO READ. FURTHERMORE THIS IS A DISCUSSION GROUP,NOT A CHATROOM. IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO CHAT SOMEONE UP TRY AOL! THANKS FOR WASTING MY TIME.
*"GRETCHEN I HAVE FOUND THAT IT IS MORE COURTEOUS TO TYPE WITH CAPS. BECAUSE THE FONTS ARE EASIER TO READ. FURTHERMORE THIS IS A DISCUSSION GROUP,NOT A CHATROOM. IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO CHAT SOMEONE UP TRY AOL! THANKS FOR WASTING MY TIME. "David Joyner: Despite what you believe, the above part of your post is NOT easier to read. It is not easy on the eyes. It is not polite when the author clearly knows better, as you do. You are being obstinant to ignore the conventions of this and every other message board by insisting on "DOING YOUR OWN THING". Of all the times you get remarks for your posts, the fact that many include comments like Gretch and Danford's should convince you that your claim of being courteous by SHOUTING is absurd. Wake up. Then grow up.Dave
*David A. Brown your perception of the lower cases text being as easy to read as the upper case text is self-serving; and in my opinion ludicrous. As for being politeIt is my opinion that I was being considerate of the needs of others, in your opionion I was not taking into consideration others feelings; I'm sorry if I feel that peoples needs should come before there feelings. As for being OBSTINANT (which by the way is spelled obstinate) I will forever appear this way to you and all others who view this discussion group as a trendy place to hang out at, instead of a forum for sharing knowledge-pertaining to wood working. Dave the only thing I see as absurd here is the amount of time and effort you people expend to write about meaningless idiosyncrasies. As for your closing arguments : wake up - I feel that this suggestion is by far the only advice that I should take from you. I need to wake up to the fact that I am not going to get any advantageous education out of this. Grow up - well Dave that is inevitable isn't it, though if I had a choice I don't think I'd take your advice.I hope that you don't waste anymore of your time trying to convince me to be bothered by your caps no caps hang up. But if you feel a need to vent you have all the right to further cloud this legitimate discussion; just don't expect me to answer or take part.No far feelings David Joyner
*David, Where have you been these past few years? It is common knowledge for most everyone, NOT to use caps when posting or sending email! PLease give us a break and follow common courtesy on the internet. Your way is not what people prefer. No hard feelings.
*I think that all of you here should take some lessons from Danford, he has offered a wealth of useful information relevant to the topic at hand. If everyone else was more like Dan people might be learning some useful skills from there time spent in the discussion group.
*Personally, I couldn't care less whether a post is all caps or lower case. What really bugs me is having to read thru half a dozen irrelevent messages like those above. David, I have been making mission-style furniture for my own enjoyment for the past seven-eight years. I always fume my pieces--both red and white oak, as well as honduran mahogany--using a strong ammonia solution I bought from an architectural blueprint business. (I bought a whole gallon for ten dollars or so, and I still have at last half of it sitting in my garage.) I always do my fuming in the garage, with all the doors open. I make a fuming tent for each piece out of a cardboard box and plastic. For my biggest piece--a dining room sideboard--I used an appliance box wrapped in the plastic bag a queen-size mattress came in. The point is to create a space big enough to accommodate the piece without being too big. Also, the tent must not touch the sides of the piece.When I'm ready to fume, I cover the piece with the tent, then, taking a deep breath of fresh air, I open my bottle of ammonia, pour a quarter inch or so into an aluminium pie plate, and slip it under the tent. Still holding my breath, I peel out of the garage and wait a few minutes before going back to see that all is as it should be.When the piece is done fuming, I reverse the process. I hold my breath, pull out the pie plate, dump the ammonia into a bucket of water, and peel out again for a few minutes. The water dilutes the ammonia and I later dump it out on the grass. (Someone once gave me to understand that it's good for the grass, and mine certainly doesn't seem to have come to any harm.)In the course of all this, I will invariably inhale a whiff or two of ammonia. This tends to clear the sinuses! I would imagine if I were to inhale the ammonia direct from the bottle it would probably dissolve my sinuses--but that's notwhat I'm doing. Actually, the smell in the blueprint office where I bought the stuff was rather strong, and there, the staff are working around it all day.Some things to note:-white oak fumes darker than red oak, but both color to some extent-honduran mahogany turns a nice deep rich red-you have to watch white oak and check it every few hours for "doneness", otherwise it might get too dark--each piece is different-I've neveer been able to get a piece of red oak darker than I've wanted it-oak sapwood will not color--Stickley used to paint on a stain to match sapwood with the surrounding fumed wood. I simply cut out any sapwood when I make a piece, or leave it in knowing that it will result in a band of light woodThere's a description of the process in the book by (I think) Joseph Bavarro on how to make Stickley furniture. The whole thing is pretty simple and pretty foolproof, unless you upset a gallon of ammonia in your garage, in which case, I suggest you stay out of it for a few days!As for the rest of the finishing process, I wipe on several coats of tung oil, and one coat of Johnson's paste floor wax, buffed. Most of my pieces turn out a sort of medium, nut brown (at least, that's how it seemsto me) with fairly well defined medulary rays. The red oak turns out a nice mellow gold color.I also make my own hammered copper hardware for my pieces--but that's another story. Hope this helps you somewhat. The trick is probably to just start with a smallish piece and get comfortable with the process.Good luck.
*Greetings David. John's technique is essentially the way I've done fuming. Key is probably getting as airtight a container as possible. In addition, if you don't want to hold your breath, (this stuff is WAY strong), there are special ammonia filters for half-mask respirators, which I use. Never could hold my breath long enough to stop hiccups, and I can't imagine taking a breath of this stuff! Did I say it was STRONG?PJ
*Thanks Again to those that have posted helpfull information here.David Joyner
*I've just finished a qsawn coffee table with linseed oil and paste wax, and I like it a lot. It lends a nice warm color and sheen to the oak, and the flecks show up very well the darker it gets.First, I sanded the piece to 220. I cook my linseed oil in a jar dunked halfway into a pot of boiling water, to heat it up. I then wipe it on with a foam brush, let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wipe off the excess. I repeat this, sanding between coats with 400 grit paper, with a day to dry between coats.After the third coat of oil, I sand again with 400g paper and apply paste wax and buff. I've used a cloth to apply the wax so far, but now I'm considering the 0000 steel wool I read about above.Good luck!Rob Kutner
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