I’m finally getting ready to set up my shop in my new garage. I currently have an existing contractor saw but am ready to step up to a cabinet saw. My wife insists that it has to be a Sawstop (and I don’t disagree), but I’m conflicted about which one to get. I have both 110v and 220v available, so that is not an issue. I will be using it primarily in the beginning to create cabinets for the entire kitchen, mud room and closets. These will be Euro style built from sheet goods. Once those are complete, I plan on making furniture pieces from both solid lumber and sheet goods.
The 3 hp model is ~$500 more than the 1.75 hp model, which could go toward some other tools I’d like to add (bandsaw and dust collection). Will I regret not getting the 3hp model, or is the 1.75 hp model sufficient for my needs?
Replies
I was in the same spot as you a few years ago. I got the 3 hp. I'm very happy.
I'd gone through two smaller saws over the years, and decided I'd just skip to the end. If I got the smaller motor and wasn't happy, there's no way to upgrade down the road.
Do you need the saw to be mobile? Consider the industrial version of their mobile base if you do. It's far and away the best mobile base in the universe.
Go for the 3 horses. Same story for me that JC2 told above.
I ran some bamboo plywood on edge at full blade height today to create a relief in the back corner of an already-built cabinet (rather than dig out a sloppy mud job in a corner). The saw did not blink. You'll be able to do things you can't even think of yet without hesitation. The extra power provides extra powers.
+1 on the hydraulic industrial mobile base. I even had one chopped and welded to fit my jointer/planer. Nothing else like it.
Keep that woman happy!
My saw is 3KW (4HP) and it will STILL bog down on some cuts.
The higher HP rating means cleaner cuts as your blade speed stays high, and less burning as the wood passes the blade a little faster.
To be fair it's only on cuts like 3" of hard maple or 4" of wet treated timber that I have to be careful but no-one ever wished for a less powerful saw. You'd lose far more than $300 selling your old saw and buying the one you really wanted later anyway.
I have the 3 hp Sawstop and recommend it highly. If you are doing sheet goods, you want their widest model. I have the intermediate-width one and am quite happy, since I rarely handle plywood or MDF.
The other thing about the 1.75 hp, I found I needed a thin kerf blade, and the saw would still bog down while ripping. With the 3 hp I use full kerf blades and it almost never bogs down.
Go for the 3 HP. In all probability this will be the last saw you will ever need.
I bought a 3 HP Jet table saw 22 years ago and have never wished I’d bought less horsepower.
Eventually you will do things besides plywood cabinets and a 3 HP will keep up with you.
For $500 over the lifespan of the saw it’s short money.
I was in the same situation six years ago and bought the 1.75hp contractor saw. It's a great saw for what you get and it does have the problems mentioned above, however, what nobody talks about is the dust collection. The dust collection is atrocious even when used with a 5hp cyclone vac system.
After a year of daily use I finally tore the machine apart and spent two weeks building a dust collection box underneath and outfeed table that enclosed the motor. That and a number of other tweeks greatly improved dust collection to about 99% efficiency.
FWIW this year I upgrade to the 5hp ICS and it's a beast. Well made and cuts through anything, however, the dust collection still SUCKS. Not what I would have expected from the company that owns Festool.
Thanks for all of the feedback. I’ve lived with an underpowered saw (and without dust collection) for many years. Time to upgrade both.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve been working with an under powered saw without dust collection for many years now. Time to get serious and upgrade both.
Another plug for the 3hp saw. You'll forgot about the $500 in short time with a 3hp, but will remember it every time the 1.75hp bogs down or burns a piece of wood.
I have a related question to upgrading from a contractor saw with an open undercarriage) to a Sawstop Professional. Is the overarm dust collection option effective and worthwhile? I believe the stock polycarbonate blade guard has a separate dust port but wasn’t sure how effective it is.
The blade guard does a pretty good job. I added a 4" drop from my main 6" DC run with a hanging flex hose to get it up off the table. I can move the saw around easily.
I would recommend the 3 HP saw. In addition to all the comments made above, the 2 other big advantages are the much increased torque. Besides helping with single blade cuts, if you use a dado stack regularly like many of us do, the extra torque is a huge plus. The other advantage is the fact the 3HP runs on 220V. Much cleaner power and better behaviour of the motor. In my opinion, compared to the overall cost of the saw, and extra $500 to step up to the 3HP makes it a no brainer.
I guess I am the odd man out. I have a 1.75 HP (220V) SS PCS and have never ever felt I needed more power. I have cut 2"+ oak, ash, maple, cherry, douglas fir, etc, and have had my saw bog down. I do make sure my blades are always sharp. To each his own.
Agree. I have the smaller motor and have been satisfied. I bought the 220V conversion kit from Lee Valley but haven't installed it yet. That may be an option for you.
There should be no difference in performance using 110v vs. 220v unless your 110v line is rated for less current than what the motor draws at 110v. I initially ran my 1.75 hp SawStop on 110V, but then decided to rearrange the outlets in my shop and installed a couple of 220V outlets which can use smaller gage wire (vs 110) since the current draw at 220v is about 50% vs. 110v. I could not detect any difference running mine at 110v compared to 220V.
I ran a 1.75 HP saw for years and it always did what I asked of it using thin kerf blades. The setup and technique are more critical and different respectively but you can get a good result. The current 3HP PCS gives me more confident cuts and a better result spinning full kerf blades. Setup and technique are still important but the more powerful saw cuts more easily and give me a better experience (safer feeling, more confident) overall.
I've never owned a table saw with a larger motor than 1. 75 HP which I have now. Certainly, if you can afford it and already have the 220V wired, a 3HP would be a good buy if the additional cost is only $500. However, I can honestly say that there were never any drawbacks to having a 1.75 HP saw. It might require a somewhat slower feed for ripping, but using a rip blade and jointing the edge has always worked for me. I've ripped 8/4 and 12/4 maple and oak with my saws and really never had a problem.