I’m producing very small picture frames (5×7),and I’m looking for a finish product that I can use in a tank dipping application.All I’m trying to do is to pop out the color of the wood with a slight sheen without runs ,and it needs to dry very fast.I tried a 3lb. cut shellac but it ended up with glossy and duller areas.I,m thinking that it has too many solids, and because I’m not familiar with shellac,was wondering how much I can thin the product.Or, do I just go to a 2 or 1lb. cut instead? How about a different product that will give me what I’m looking for?Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks, OMNI
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Replies
1 lb. cut or 2 lb. cut are just thinned versions of the same product so you only have to add the alcohol to try out those permutations. I'm not too sure you will get what you are looking for. The very thin shellac might not show areas of excess shine, but the price for that will be having no shine, though you would still get the color popping.
Steve,thank you for the reply,I will give it a try soon. OMNI
Maybe spraying will be more certain in the long run. SAtin varnish
Gretchen, thank you for the reply,spraying is not an option that I want to consider because it takes to much time for many reasons and also the dry time is too slow for what I need to do.Your info is appreciated! OMNI
Omni, I'm sure you're startin' to feel a bit beat up over this spray thing, but I'm adding my voice to those who urge you to try it! I did a project a couple years ago that involved "mini-frame". I bought this Wagner HVLP unit for around $89. Can't remember exactly which product I sprayed, it might have been a lacquer, but it went on great and dried really, really fast.
Other than that, the only thing I've tried dipping is with Minwax, some kind of one-step thing that combined stain and finish. It was for Christmas ornaments, worked pretty well.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,
Thank you for your reply,as I have stated before,spraying is the last resort.I need a fast solution to popping out the color of the wood.Because of my experience,Minwax products would be the last thig that I would try.Thank you for your suggestion. OMNI
Given the details you're describing, seems like shellac is the answer. Did you ever try your idea of a 1 lb. cut? Something between that and a 2# cut might work. You mentioned glossy and dull areas. What kind of wood are you using?? That's an important factor possibly.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forsetgirl,
No,I have not tried the reduced cut yet,maybe sometime this week.The woods that I'm currently using are Makore and Sepele.I like the makore better because of the color,they both have the same grain,hardness,and machining characteristics.I'm also going to try some "Alowood" (rosewood & ebony),because the cost is about 33% less.Thank you for your reply. OMNI
I don't know how the dry time could be too slow.Gretchen
Grechen,
Thanks for the reply,varinsh dries to slow for what I'm trying to do.I can not use varinsh,poly,oil,ect. for this particular situtition.Thanks, OMNI
I think you have it backwards, Omni.
Dipping or spraying the exact same material on anything porous (like wood) is going to dry slower with the dipping method because the liquid is going to soak in more into the porous material, and the deeper or more thoroughly the material soaks in, the longer it's going to take for the outside surface to dry.
Kevin,
I agree with you about spraying vs dipping,but I must go with dipping becauce of the reasons that I have stated earler.Thanks, OMNI
omni:
I know you said you would rather not spray, but have you considered spraying lacquer? It dries very fast, and is available in sheens from dead flat to high gloss. Just a thought...
To be honest I think you could spray a lacquer with better results and less clean-up than you could dip for a product like this. I once got talked into making several hundred wood plaques and experimented with dipping, turned out to be a major waste of time and never was happy with results. Cut some 2x4 that would hold 10 at a time. I could spray 10, set aside, spray another set of 10, turn the first 10 over and spray the back, set aside, spray another 10, turn over 2nd set and spray back, etc. Talked my daughter into turning them over while I sprayed. We did maybe 300 in a couple of hours with minimal cleanup.
Woodwish,
Thank you for your suggestion. OMNI
sawdustfactory,
Thank you for the reply,I have had alot of experience with lacquer but still do not want to spray because of the set-up,handling time and cleaning time required.In a dip process you load the rack,dip,and then your're done.I need a one step process to be able to handle it in 30 mimutes or less in able to ship.I'm currently doing 100 units a week in a test marketing situtation with the possibility of doing 100--300 a day.All that I'm trying to do is to bring out the color of the wood,it doesn't need to be a furniture quality topcoat.If the shellac process doesn't work or if I don't get a suggestion for a different product,then maybe I'll be forced to go to lacquer.Thank you for your suggestion. OMNI
Dip them twice in the shellac and you should have a uniform sheen. If the shellac is fresh it will dry so fast that you can dip them again in 10 or 15 minutes.
Rob A,
Thank you for your reply,I will give it a try.Thanks, OMNI
Just another option (not that I disagree with any of the above). A shaker box maker from Berea, KY, used to dip his boxes in Danish Oil, set them concave side down on hardware cloth and let them drip back into a pan where it recycled back to the dip bucket. One would think the pan and bucket would get thick and sticky after short order, but that's what he did.
Hammerandhand,
Thank you for your reply, oil dries to slow for what I need to accomplish,Thanks, OMNI
The problem with dipping, as you have found out, is that you cannot control film thickness; the top corner, where you hang it, will be thinner than bottom. That's what is causing your difference in sheen with the shellac.
If the appearance of the back is not critical, you could make holders with two parallel wires about 30" long that you would lay 4 frames across to gang-dip them, then hang the rack up to dry and dip another rack of frames. Use the thinnest cut of shellac that provides a decent dry film and expect to have to soak the appliances periodically in alcohol to dissolve the build-up off the wires. You can use the clean-up alcohol as diluent in the batch tank as you replenish it.
You're probably already aware of this, but be sure you have plenty of ventilation flowing through or you'll get drunk in a hurry just breathing the fumes. Put furnace filters on the incoming air opening to control dust. Also, make sure not to work too close to any sources of ignition, like water heater or furnace pilot lights/burners.
Good luck
BruceT
Edited 6/23/2007 1:39 am ET by BruceT999
Edited 6/23/2007 1:40 am ET by BruceT999
Bruce T999,
Thank you for your reply,I'm with you on the gravity thing,and I'm considering doing a rotiserie type of drying rack to solve that problem.Thanks, OMNI
I make pic frames all the time for my wifes stained glass. I buy canned spray lacquer at HD. Easy, quick drying, 2 coats.
JVK,
Thank you for the reply,this is a production situation and a canned product is not an option because of cost.Thanks, OMNI
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