Replies

1. 
   tommyp | Mar 16, 2005 06:38pm | #1

   whats the arbor size my 12"cms is 1" all my other blades are 5/8" thats the reason it took so long to get my saw didn't want to by 12"blades but the amount of use and cause i did a crown molding job help cover the expense. i also think i read something about table saw blades no good on a cms.have to check hat out again

   Thomas B. Palumbo

   CUSTOM WOODWORKING

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 16, 2005 09:04pm | #3

   Hi tommy, oops! didn't think about the arbor hole.  Have to check that out.  BTW, as far as I know, the blades are the same for table saw and miter saw, but not for sliding CMS or, certainly, radial arm saws.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   tommyp | Mar 16, 2005 11:31pm | #9

   like i said i'm not sure about what blade goes to what tool but i remember reading about not mixing then.

   i use forrest blades your a fan on freud. does freud make a blade for melamine so that i wouldn't have to score first. i may have a job coming up cutting a few cabinets and doing a desk.Thomas B. Palumbo

   CUSTOM WOODWORKING

1. 
   migraine | Mar 17, 2005 01:12am | #10

   There are many makes of blades that are designed for cutting melamine.  Basically you want a "High Top ATB" with the teeth set on a negative hook.  So that the cutting motion is cutting more towards you than on the down stroke.   Freud makes/some one as well as F/S and Systamatic(not sure of spelling), among others.  I typically stick with a 10"x80 tooth blade. 

   Don't expect these blades to last a whole long time between sharpening.  Particle board is nasty on having impurities in the board.  My last cabinet job(my own home) was 40 sheets of melamine and I went through 6-8 blades(sharpening).  Also wiped out a brand new blade with a rock manufactured into the panel.  This was my first order from this supplier and I'm not to sure as who manufactured the panels. Quality of the foil wasn't that great either.

1. 
   tommyp | Mar 17, 2005 03:05am | #12

   don't think the job would be more than 10 sheet

   i've used my ww2 blade to cut 2 sheet up for a small cabinet the cuts were good but i don't want to ruin the blade cost was about $110

   thanks for the replyThomas B. Palumbo

   CUSTOM WOODWORKING

2. 
   migraine | Mar 17, 2005 04:02am | #14

   Cutting 10 sheets on a WW2 blade shouldn't hurt the blade, unless you hit something,   But it will require a sharpening after that. 

2. 
   forestgirl | Mar 17, 2005 02:05am | #11

   "does freud make a blade for melamine so that i wouldn't have to score first."  Yep.  My catalog's at home and I'm at work.  Will post model# later!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   forestgirl | Mar 17, 2005 05:11am | #16

   Tommy, attached below is a scan of the melamine blades in their 2003 catalog.  I'll check with Charles about any new models, but you can get an idea of blade configuration by looking at the ones listed here.  Note the difference in descriptions between the LU98 (fast) and LU97 (ultra-long-life).  The hardness of the carbide increases as you go from left to right.

   If your browser window downsizes the photo, it'll have to be re-inflated to be readable.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
1. 
   tommyp | Mar 17, 2005 09:36pm | #20

   thank you for your supportThomas B. Palumbo

   CUSTOM WOODWORKING

2. 
   forestgirl | Mar 18, 2005 06:21pm | #22

   Hope the pretty pictures helped, LOL!  I dropped Charles a note, but I haven't heard from -- probably means he's not around, as he usually writes back quickly.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   Len | Mar 17, 2005 07:43pm | #19

   fg,

   Have you taken off the blade from your CMS? When I took the blade off my 12" Dewalt it used a 5/8 shaft with an adapter. Probebly cheaper this way if you want to keep the same components with the 10" line.

   You might have the same situation. My only concern would be depth of cut.

    Hi, I'm Len and I'm a Toolaholic...

2. 
   migraine | Mar 16, 2005 07:03pm | #2

   I have done this on my 8 1/2" Hitachi CMS.  I got in a bind and used a 7 1/4" blade when I got into a pinch and I had no problems.  I did add a piece of plywood to the table of the saw, but this is usually on the saw anyway because the table is already so small/ackward

   Any good saw sharpening can punch out your blade to 1" or any other size for cheap.  Just wait till the blade is dull and also have them "top" the blade becuase this will put the blade back into center if the punch out is off a little. They should be able to sell you some bushings.  I have 30mm blades, along with 1" blades that I use on my tablesaw and mitre saws.  These are 5/8" arbors.

   By the way, I have started to use Universal Saw and Tool for my sharpening and I think that there quality is great.  They have a blade tensioner and the owner will hammer blades if necessary(hopefully never necessary).  Price for a 80tooth blade was around $18, and tacoma Saw quoted me "in the $24.00 range".  Big difference in savings when I took 10+ blades to him. Universal Saw is on Hwy 512 and about three exits down

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 16, 2005 09:09pm | #4

   Nope, I won't be punching this blade -- use on the table saw too much, and at $70+ I don't want to mess with it anyway. 

   Thanks for the tip on Universal Saw.  You happen to have a phone# for them??  I'll have to look at a map to get the Hwy 512 ref -- don't drive that much in Seattle since I quit going to auctions.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   migraine | Mar 16, 2005 09:54pm | #6

   Universal Saw

   253-539-8122

   1-877-GET-SHARP

   I believe it's hwy 512.  It's off exit 127 or so from the 5 Freeway  A little ways farther south.

   They do ship UPS

   Edited 3/16/2005 3:14 pm ET by migraine

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 16, 2005 11:15pm | #8

   Thanks!  I might send them my old Excalibur blade and see if they can make it work the way it should (for the price I paid), LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   MBL | Mar 16, 2005 09:24pm | #5

   Also, will the 10" reach and cut to the bottom?

   -mbl-

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 16, 2005 11:14pm | #7

   I can always make an "auxiliary table" I guess.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   MBL | Mar 17, 2005 03:46am | #13

   And, most likely, an auxiliary fence too, so the cut goes through the width.-mbl-

4. 
   hammer1 | Mar 17, 2005 04:56am | #15

   The 10" will be shy of cutting through the work piece with most saws, if the arbor hole will fit. You can add a table and a fence piece to compensate. As you change angles, the auxiliary pieces may become cut loose. Just be careful they don't go flying. One of the safest ways to use a miter saw is to let the blade stop before raising it. This also helps to eliminate the chipping that can occur as the spinning blade is lifted out of the cut. Of all the blades I have owned, there have been many, Systimatic are the best. Lots of carbide that will last through many sharpenings. A professional level blade at an affordable price. They are often the blades carried by sharpening companies that service the industrial woodworking trade.
   http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/index.htm
   It doesn't matter how many times you sharpen a cheap blade, they will always cut the same. I wouldn't waste my money hoping a good sharpener will change it. Chopping action is particularly hard on blades and brings out the worst. Fine tooth blades, 80 - 100 dull faster than a good 60T. For most common materials you don't need a high tooth count. They are better reserved for thin metal and plastic as well as very delicate moldings. When I need very precise cuts, I use a sled on the table saw.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
5. 
   georgek | Mar 17, 2005 04:29pm | #17

   FG, I was told not to do this, something about different rake angles that makes it dangerous.

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 17, 2005 06:19pm | #18

   Sounds like I'd better write Charles-from-Freud.  Forgot to look at the Bosch arbor size last night, duh.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

6. 
   mike4244 | Mar 18, 2005 02:25am | #21

   First of all you won't save much money. It's not like you change blades monthly on a cms. As someone posted the arbor is probably 1", all of the 12" saws I have used have this size arbor. Your 10" blade I'm sure has a 5/8" arbor. I doubt that you can cut thru a board without building the table up 1".Is the 10" blade you are considering even for a mitersaw?Make sure you put a blade on that is for a mitersaw, tablesaw blades do not workwell with a mitersaw, I know I tried it.

   mike