Replies

1. 
   john_c2 | Jul 30, 2020 04:01pm | #1

   Is the blade parallel to the miter slots? Check that first. If it is, the trunnions don't need adjusting -- the fence does.

   If it is not parallel to the miter slots, do you use them? If you dont, you can still leave the trunions and just adjust the fence. That's a lot easier than fiddling with the trunnions.

2. 
   ExNavy | Jul 30, 2020 05:52pm | #2

   The fence is parallel to the slots. The blade is not. The blade is wider in the feed end and closer in the out feed.

3. 
   john_c2 | Jul 30, 2020 06:29pm | #3

   Do you use the miter slots?

4. 
   geedubbee | Jul 30, 2020 06:32pm | #4

   I loosen (not remove) all trunnion bolts and slide the trunnion to the extreme left (when standing in the operator position). This not only gets you to the zero point but, gives you the largest opening to get your hand in for blade changes.

   Some table mounted trunnions use 4 bolts, some use 5 with a center bolt at front or rear, some use 6. With the method of sliding the whole trunnion to the left you snug the bolts and check alignment. Re-loosen the bolts. With the result of your alignment check you either snug the front left or rear left bolt and use it as a pivot point to bring the saw into alignment.

   In the event that you just cannot get the saw to align then yes, pull the trunnons and file the holes a bit more. Take care not to over file and weaken the structure. Then do as described above. This only covers alignment at 90 degrees but, let's get there first. Then we can discuss the value of getting a contractor saw int alignment at a bevel.

5. 
   mikeinohio | Jul 30, 2020 06:38pm | #5

   I have heard of people using a round file to make the trunnion holes into slots. This is supposed to allow for more adjustment.

   You would have to see if your Craftsman trunnions are beefy enough to permit this.

   Mike