I have bitten of more than I can chew with this one and would like advice. I am about to start a wainscoting project Of considerable size, its the first floor of a local hotel approx. 220ft of corridor plus lobby and breakfast area.
Questions:
1. I have looked locally and on the internet for a suitable wainscoting material. I think birch veneer on mdf or birch plywood would be my two best choices. I can get the MDF for $80/ 4×8 sheet or birch plywood at a local Lowes 1/4″@ $20 or 3/4″@ $36. Do I need to consider other alternatives? I recently completed an entertainment center for their lobby in birch and I am trying to keep the same color/look going.
2. Why is the mdf so much more expensive than plywood? Is it the book matched & balanced part of the quote?
3. Is book matched and balanced necessary?
4. The hotel walls are concrete block with wall vinyl. Any suggestions for attaching?
5. I am planning to have moulding “picture framed” on the wainscoting in roughly 2’x2′ squares. I would like to hear or see pics of other options.
I wish I could have you all come to help but I assume most are busy during the next 2 years. Any and all suggestions will be deeply appreciated.
Why did I chose to do this big a job with this little knowledge of wainscoting? I love woodworking since starting it 2 years ago and this job has its rewards. No money….Im married to the owner.
The other 5 questions are sure to come.
Thanks
Bo
Replies
On your question 5, here is a photo showing wainscoting for painting, done in MDF. I'm sorry it's none too clear, but the photo was predominantly of the steps.
The panelling is recessed, as you can see and a hardwood moulding was put around the recesses after painting. The cap rail shown was painted and there was a Victorian pattern baseboard added -- also painted MDF.
The wall was firred out to take the MDF, which was nailed and glued to the firring strips with construction adhesive.
View Image
IanDG
IanDG
Did you do the steps? I notice it's continued as a border around the room. Looks great!
Thanks for the reply. I agree that the block walls should be firred out and then adhesive used with finish nailer to hold the wainscotiing but what is the best or most efficient way to attach the firing strips to concrete? I assume the strips should be horizontal with vertical nailers at the joints. Is there any certain way I should treat the joints. Just butt them together or tounge N groove. The corridors are basically 17' runs broken by a pair of doors on each side of the hall.These doors are inset 1ft from the corridor walls.
Sarge, feel free to jump in I met with Sherwin Williams about duplicating a dye stain that I like and have received prices from local wood destributers. I can't wait to fill my garage, kitchen and den with 4x8 sheets of birch plywood waiting for staining.
Thanks for the help.
Bo
Bo
Thanks for the clarification on the MDF price. Good to know that all is well in the MDF world. Ha..
Good luck with all those sheets. I just finished 30' of counter for my company. I normally don't do for other than family, but I owe it to them. Working with 8' sheets and it's a pain. Got real creative and pretty good at it after awhile. I have a small 850 sq. ft. shop filled with tools and an additional 800 sq. ft. for assembly in the half basement adjoining. I thought I had plenty of space till I started these battle-ships by my standards. Four 8' scetions at one time. Got real crowded. I still have a 8' section of semi-round to go, but the 30' has already been installed and out of the way.
Good luck with this thing and keep us posted. I, for one might learn something. I have already learned not to marry anyone that owns a hetel. ha..ha..
Evening..
sarge..jt
Yes, I cut and laid all the parquet floor, the border and the stairsFor the fixing of the firrings to the concrete, the easiest way is with a powder-actuated nail gun, like a Ramset or similar but for that to work best the wall needs to be flat and the firrings at least 1" thick.The next easiest is to drill through the firrings into the concrete and use Tap-con screws."I assume the strips should be horizontal with vertical nailers at the joints.That's how I'd fix them."Is there any certain way I should treat the joints. Just butt them together or tounge N groove."As you are glueing the sheets at the join anyway, I wouldn't bother with T&G -- I think you'd stand a better chance of getting an invisible join if you stayed with a simple butt joint.IanDG
Bo
Agree with Ian on the furring out and glueing. Do I understand you to say that MDF is $80 for a 4 x 8 sheet? Is this standard MDF or something you're referring to that already has a molding attached?
Local Atlanta prices for smooth MDF are $11 1/4", $14 1/2" and $20 3/4" approximate. I can't imagine $80 for MDF. Many older homes here were done with wainscoating. Some were wainscoated with 2" heart pine tongue and groove that gave a seam between each 2" strip. I have seen 4 x 8 sheets done in this manner in HD and Lowes. It's usually birch veneer on the surface in 1/4". You finish it (paint or stain). Just a thought.
Just curious as to the MDF price and where you are located?
Good luck...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
KY is the location but Indiana is where the mill is located. I think I was confusing about the price. They quoted mdf with birch veneer that is "book and balanced matched". The panels were to be matched in in sequences of 8 panels each. This is when I decided I was over my head. I had never thought that matching the veneers at panel edges to be an industry standard, but having little knowledge thought I better ask the Forum
Bo
Thanks
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