Have an ongoing project from many years, with improvements I’ve thought up, but may not be original.
My hobby involves cataloging and displaying Distinctive Insignia on 2.125 X 2″ bits of colored poster board, which is only about 3/32″ thick .
In order to move/rearrange the cards easily in a frame, I wish to use 1/2 X 3/4 X 20″ lengths of parting stock, with cuts to allow for sliding the cards.
The “standard” kerf in most circular saw blades that I’ve seen is about 0.126″, some saw blades may be in the 0.0937″ range, but I’d really like something closer to 0.0625″. Does such exist for a 10″ blade?
I’m talking about making “grooves” in over 800 linear feet of material to set up the current project. any recommendations??
Replies
You may find that 7 1/4 blades may cut the kerf you need. I have used this diameter blade in my unisaw and they work fine.
I echo the 7 1/4" solution.....Chances are yer close enuf, but if the kerf is still too fat, you just take it to the saw sharpeners and ask them if they can grind down the carbide a tad on each side.I don't think any 10" blade is even gonna come close to yer goal ....Eric
Found a 7- 1/4" with a 0.08 apparent kerf, that should work.
The 10" blade I have for plywood cuts has a 0.10/0.11 kerf, not good enough.
One problem I've encountered is that the stock is not of uniform dimension, probably of small concern to a full wood work shop. I have to check dimensions before I buy to at least insure I'm quite close, or I end up with some rails that have "binding" problems - after assembly that's a real Pain.
Laurie
Have a cab shop run your stock through their planer. One pass will do it and your stock will be the same thickness....
Two possibilities using machinist's tooling. You can get a a 5" diameter by .064" thick jeweler's saw blade for around $25.00. The blade would have a 1" arbor hole so you would have to make a bushing to size it down for you saw's arbor. MSC part is #03306644.
As already mentioned you can mount a smaller blade on a full size saw with no problems, you just lose depth of cut, but you probably only need a fraction of an inch to make the groove.
You could also get a 3" by 1/16" slitting saw part #03133048 and an arbor #08271058 and set it up on a drill press with a fence, the combination would cost around $30.00.
MSC can be reached at mscdirect.com or 1-800-645-7270.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
You don't say how deep you'd like the cuts, or how far they are from the edge of the stock. If you'd consider routing the grooves, Freud sells 04-096, which has a 1/4" shank, can cut 1/4" deep, and has a diameter of 1/16". They also sell 3/32" and larger bits of course. Sawing would be faster, but if you wanted to put corners or have stopped grooves, routing might give you more flexibility.
The cuts would be 1/8" on one side and 3/16" on the opposite side, both 1/8" back from a "front" edge. This only leaves 3/16" of material, but since I have a "light" touch, I don't figure that the piece would ever break.
Many thanks for the suggestion, think I'll go with the 7-1/4" inch saw blade as the kerf appears to be about 0.08" - Not too far off my optimal measurement. The main thing I'm trying to avoid is a complete overlap when I slide various "cards" through the rails whenever I need to reorganize.
Laurie
I've heard that Matsush!ta makes an excellent 36T combo blade in 7-1/4", 1/16" kerf that goes for < $25....Model # MS71436CB. Most users claim that it rivals blades like the venerable Forrest WWII in cut quality. I haven't had the privelege of trying one yet.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/ab/####/####.htm?E+coastest
Edited 8/22/2006 8:57 am ET by Knotscott
My tenative solution is a 7-1/4 inch blade from True Value/Master Mechanic with 144T. It appears to have a 0.08" kerf. That may do the job for me.
Many thanks, Laurie
Hrm... that high a toothcount sounds like a stamped blade. Are you sure the teeth set won't leave a much wider slot?
I suspect it's cheap enough that if it doesn't work, you can try another blade.
michaelMichael
I was thinking the same thing about that blade Michael....runout could cause the kerf to cut wider than the blade measures too. Set your sites a little higher if this project is important to you.
I havent checked the thickness, but Oldham plywood blade is probable close to 1/16" - 1/8", but it is not carbide - straight steel blade.
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 8/25/2006 10:50 am ET by Ricks503
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