Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 17, 2004 06:22pm | #1

   I have my doubts about how well it would work out to use the extension table as a "general purpose table."  Unless you're a little more of a neat-nik than most of us, seems it would tend to accumulate "stuff" that would be a real pain to clear off and put "somewhere" while you use the table to cut panels.

   The extension table and legs are an add-on kit that can be purchased separately down the road should you feel the need.  Doesn't seem to be that much of a price difference.  I'd lean toward buying the basic unit and using that until you determine you really need the extra cutting capacity.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   BG | Sep 17, 2004 06:41pm | #2

   Burt,

   I'll second what FG said.  I usually get my ply pre cut from where I buy it...and my shop is too small to house any extra sheet stock..so my 1023s works fine.  Now, building a drop down outfeed table off the end of the 1023 was like buying sliced bread for the first time..it is terriffic for staging cut stock, assembly and finishing...  Your going to want to save your floor space for other needs...router table, workbench, drill press, bandsaw, etc. 

   I saw a nice little setup where the guy used the left side end of the front rail and built a support for long stock off the left side..that could be easily broken down and stored....I may do that ..   
3. 
   bones | Sep 18, 2004 05:47am | #3

   Burt, I struggled with the same dimension as you. My shop while a little bigger (two car garage that I use half of). In the end I went with the SLX because of the 7' rails. I got the shop fox heavy duty base and the extension kit. I struggled with the extra $250.00 for the bigger table, but in the end, I do not regret it one bit. You could get the smaller one first, but I really like the 54" cut capacity .vs. the 26" of the smaller one. The bessy style fence is very nice. My saw was dead on, and the top was perfectly flat.  The shop fox base is nice, but if you don't need to ever move it, I would skip that part. I got the base & extension so I could move it around when required, and it does roll very well (on my concrete floor).  Every thing together was $1,300.00 delivered. I put a Forrest WWII 40T thin Kerf blade on it and all I can say is wow.  Customer Service at Grizzly is very good as well. My first delivery was damaged. I rejected the delivery on a Friday and by the Next Friday a new one was at my door. I have since replaced the standard insert for a ZC and replaced the standard  blade cover with Penn Industries over arm ($149.00 and worth it). One final comment. The electrical spec calls for a minimum of a 20A circuit. It is rated at 18A. After discussing this with my electrician, I put it on a 30A dedicated circuit with a L630 Plug and 10awg wire. It has been a tremendous step up from the shopsmith.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=18897.1

1. 
   BBob | Sep 18, 2004 06:34am | #4

   After a little more study I'm getting the impression that I can resolve my perceived problem of a small table with jigs. I don't have any idea how much sheet material I will use but there seems to be many options for size reduction before the material hits the TS.

   Because of size and suggestions on this thread I am leaning heavily towards the SL. The money saved may go to a larger jointer or somesuch.

   Thanks for your suggestions. They are very helpful.

   Burt

4. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 18, 2004 06:45am | #5

   Burt, before you buy that 1023 find out what the current requirements are. I have a Shop Fox dust collector with a 1 1/2 hp motor that draws 16amps, (suprised the heck out of me when I first noticed it). Thats well above that of the competitors (Jet, Delta, etc.) Its not a problem if you have 20 amp circuits in your shop and don't mind paying for the extra electricity it will be using. My theory is that they are using a cheaper copper alloy in the field windings than the competitors, (no scientific proof, just a theory). I'm not sure what motor the 1023 uses but it is likely of the same breed, (so to speak).

   Just something I think you need to check out.... Hope it helps in your decision.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 18, 2004 07:52am | #6

   16 amps?  Wow, is that wired at 220V or 110V??.  Just looked at the Grizzly web site.  The 1023S is a 220V, 3HP, taking 18 amps.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   SRToolguy | Sep 18, 2004 08:14am | #7

   The DC is wired for 110 and uses a TEFC motor so even when wired for 220 it will still use 16 amps.

   18 amps at 220 on a 3 horse motor (TEFC) is about right since it would be two 120 volt (or 110v circuits) drawing 9 amps each.... at 750 (approx) watts per HP 18 x 120 gives you 2.88 hp. I round it up to 750 watts for convienence so its pretty close to 3 hp...

   So, in conclusion, the motor on the DC is really suckie while the motor on the 1030 is probably not all that bad. Not anything to compare with a Baldor but also not in the same price range either.Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 18, 2004 07:00pm | #10

   Just when I thought I sorta understood electricity.......

   All the motor plates I've looked at indicated the motor uses 1/2-as-many amps at 220 than at 110V.  So, I'm confused on the Shop Fox motor.

   Just out of curiosity, I looked up the motors in the Grizzly catalog.  They have two sections:  "Single-Phase Motors" and "Heavy-Duty Electric Motors".  The chart for SPMs doesn't include amperage info.  The chart for HDEMs shows 2 1.5HP motors, both running at 20/10 amps, 110V/220V respectively.

   Should I be suspicious when they don't include amperage info for the one group of motors?  Seems kinda odd, but maybe there just wasn't enough space (they include all of the frame- and other-measurement info, which takes up like 8 columns).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   mike4244 | Sep 18, 2004 07:16pm | #11

   The 3hp motor cannot be wired for 110 volts, that is why the amperage is listed as 18 amps without another number. The other motors that have dual voltage can be wired 110 or 220.Thus the dual amperage ratings.

   mike

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 18, 2004 07:40pm | #13

   I'm wondering why a motor (the Shop Fox) that uses 18 amps at 110 would use 16 amps at 220.  Seems like it oughta use 9 amps at 220V (like my table saw motor, at least according to the motor plate).  Sorry if my post was confusing -- we took a detour off of the 3HP 1023S saw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   mike4244 | Sep 18, 2004 11:56pm | #14

   I agree, seems to be a misprint. All amperage ratings on motors with dual voltage that I am familiar with list 110 voltage motors at twice the amperage of 220 volt motors.

   mike

2. 
   bones | Sep 18, 2004 03:25pm | #8

   I was in the process of deciding on a saw and having my shop wired with power and extra lighting at the same time. I showed the 1023 specs to my electrician and asked if I should kick up the breaker due to the load being at close to max on a 20A breaker. The spec calls for a 20A breaker with a 20A plug. It lists the motor at 18A. This configuration would allow 12AWG wire to be used as well. The electrician recommended I not go over 70% load as a general rule if you want to play it safe. He installed a 30A 10AWG circuit with a 30A rated twist lock plug. It takes some power, but combined with the WWII, it cuts through wood like butter.

   Edited 9/18/2004 8:28 am ET by bones

1. 
   BBob | Sep 18, 2004 06:16pm | #9

   Based on bones detailed experiences with the 1023 and the fact that my basement need wiring, I've decided to put in a 240V 30amp line for the 1023. Since I will be the only one in the workshop I will share this line with other tools that I will eventually accumulate.

   The electrician said the 30amp breaker will keep me safe and quiet for a long time as long as I don't run another 240 tool at the same time.

5. 
   mike4244 | Sep 18, 2004 07:33pm | #12

   I have the G1023, I moved standard the rails to the right of the blade. This gives me 38" rip capacity. I cannot rip to the left with this setup. I do not recall after 43 years ever ripping to the left of the blade anyhow.This setup will give you more room in your shop without the problem of extra long rails. In a narrow shop I would rather have the room then capacity to rip 52".Grizzly supplies the bit and tap for the rails.

   mike