Looking to add this to my shop. The Dewalt seems to have good reviews what would be your recommendation? I am going to mostly be using is to crosscut 10 and 12 inch wide lumber. Thanks
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Replies
If you are not cutting thick stock or tall trim consider a 10" saw to be able to swap blades between machines. For that same use I bought an F-tool track saw and have found it useful in many other ways for about the same cost, including not taking up benchtop real estate.
I have not pulled out the chop saw for quite some time now. (Never had a slider)
I have the Dewalt DWS780 which is used by many finish carpenters. Pluses: LED light above saw blade creates a shadow line to show where the blade will cut. Simple and effective. Negative: known to not cut true compound angles when the saw head is near fully rotated on the vertical axis and extended fully on the slide. The sliding rails aren’t robust enough to support the saw head for a true cut in these situations.
I cut my crown nested and baseboard vertical. The 12” blade is a gift for these applications.
I love mine.
A real workhorse.
If you don't need the ability to cut 3.5" thick stock then a 10" is smaller and plenty.
If I didn't need the giant saw, I'd buy a Festool Kapex because of the lack of wasted space behind the saw.
I have a Festool Kapex. Highly recommended.
If I remember correctly I believe the Makita always took top spot on reviews. But I don’t think the festool was tested at that time.
I believe the Makita can can cut 60 degrees both right and left, something my Dewalt cannot. When cutting a stair skirt board, I could’ve of used this to make all my cuts on the miter saw without transferring lines to the back side or using a different tool to make the cut.
I have the 12 in makita: ill give it a c+. ok dust collection, easy to adjust, repeatable (ish), cuts square (ish), laser useless/invisible, it does go 60 degrees on both sides. like most others, on critical joints I always touch up with shooting board.
I have had a Makita sliding compound miter for many years. It has served me well for general carpentry and trim work. I made an extended table with 4-ft of fence on either side which adds to its functionality, something I highly recommend. Making such a fixture straight and aligning it with the saw fence is a test of basic skills.
I would not rely blindly on the marked angles or the detents until they are verified. I use a precision square and a digital bevel gage to verify angles when I need precision. I also keep a spare, sharp, high tooth count blade on hand for use when I have demanding cuts. But I doubt there is a version of this tool that would not benefit from a well set-up shooting board if you are making boxes, fine furniture or other precision work.
My son does segmented turnings which have one of the most demanding angle cuts there are. We are still trying to find the best way to make hundreds of segments in a precise, repeatable way. Square picture frames are always the test of a miter saw or shooting board, but if you really want to test your skills, and your saw (and your sanity), try to make a hexagonal or octagonal frame without any gaps at the joints.
If that’s all you’re going to do with it, I wouldn’t buy an expensive one. It’s for rough work. The sliding aspect makes those expensive. I’d spend my money on tools that matter.
Get the 12”, the versatility is worth it. Even though you don’t always need the added cutting width of a 12” blade, when you do need it you have it.
I have a Bosch 12 inch non-slider. I bought it on the recommendation of FWW in one of their tool reviews. The article said such a saw can handle most cuts needed. That has proven to be the case, but I only use it to break down the boards I get from my lumber supplier--not to make furniture-quality cuts, which I do at the table saw. The machine takes up very little space, unlike a slider. I do have problems with boards over 8 inch, but simply flip them over and cut from the other side. If you only need a saw to break down rough stuff, consider this solution and save shop space for something else.
I had a Bosch 12" slider for a while. Yes, dealing with a second sized blade was a minor issue. More so was the space the thing took up. I just lost a LOT of shop space with it. All I ever used it for was breaking down stock and the occasional "outdoor," projects we all seem to get drug into a times.
I got the slider like a year before they converted the same model to a hinged arm which would've been a much better solution... and it may be the only 12" they still make.
The Bosch was a SUPER saw performance wise. If you can eliminate the space concern, I recommend.
I eventually sold the thing for pretty much what I had in it a year or so later. It dawned on me that by the time I dealt with the dust issue and clean up, that I didn't need it. If I've a lot of breakdown to do on longer boards I generally take the stock outside and use my circ saw. And honestly, that's happens so infrequently that I've found it's just quicker, simpler and cleaner to drag out the hand saw and saw away old school.
I bought a 12” Bosch slider (before the retractable arm) probably more than 15 years ago. I’m a hobbiest and was building a big deck at the time. Wanted to cut 4x4’s, and wanted to replace my aging radial arm saw. I’ve also always believed one should buy the most expensive (and researched) tool one could afford.
Several years ago I installed a dust collection system in my basement shop and built a shroud for the saw. The shroud greatly reduces my ability to do angled cuts (I remove it for those, but it’s heavy), but it is by far my go-to tool for 95 percent of my cuts, and I’m generally a hand-tool guy.
It seems I’ve owned a lot of German tools and German cars. Wonder why that is? Engineering and quality? Absolutely.