In the other thread, I had gotten deflection cutting tall crown molding ( I cut miters seldom) with my Hitachi 12″ SCMS using a Freud miter blade. I suspected blade deflection with a TK blade as most 12″ SCMS blades are TK. A 1/32″ face gap opening was being created by that miter cut when the angles were jointed. My SCMS is used 99% for all my cross-cutting with 16′ capability extensions I added leaving the TS for dedicated ripping.

So.. I pursued a 12″ miter blade with a thick plate and kerf to combat what I perceived was deflection, even though I get no deflection with a 90* degree cut on the same blade. I missed the first clue from lack of knowledge and experience in trim work.

While looking at miter blades at a local sharpening service, a local trim carpenter (they are numerous in the Atlanta area) over-heard my problem explained to the owner. He gave me an answer that made sense. I left the shop with what I considered a most likely answer as to why after being invited to the sharpening room to try 2 different blades with an assist from the trim carpenter and shop owner.

I called two trim carpenters I know (HS mates) and after the first call, was almost sure that I had been set straight. After the 2nd call with the same logical answer from all 3 trim men, I would have wagered my life savings on the solution to the deflection. 

Indeed… there was no deflection for all practical purposes from the Freud blade. That was not the problem to begin with. The problem was me.. My technique which I originally mentioned in the other thread and then blew past the possibility by getting over-whelmed with finding a thicker plate blade.

Simply put… lack of experience in miter cuts created my dilemma. At 90* the cut is straight-forward and the 5* degree negative hook pushed the stock to fence as the negative hook is designed to do. No problem there.

But… when going at the cut at an abrupt angle you create a situation that is affectionately referred to by my local, southern trim guys as “walking the fence”. The teeth at rpm will attempt to push the stock laterally on the fence because of the angle causing a face opening that doesn’t butt kiss. This is elevated even farther if you feed to rapidly, so the same feed rate for 90* has to be slowed down a bit.

Back at the shop went to my “scary sharp” bench and borrowed an aid that was suggested. Installed it on my miter saw table and fence. Then took the suggestion also offered to clamp it as well as possible and then hold the stock with just short of a “death grip” to counter the “walk” that can occur.

The 180 grit self-adhesive sand-paper on table and fence and my new approach to “technique” produced perfect 45* angles on a left over piece of that same crown molding. I switched to my new Amana blade last night and the same results. The same results were achieved when at Butler Saw with both a CMT and Tenyru blade.

So… what blade do I recommend now? Whatever is “sharp” and on sale. The technique I recommend is a very firm hold and sand-paper added to the fence and table for some extra ummph to counter “walk”. I’m good to go and have a new back-up blade. Life is back to simple as I prefer..

Old dog.. new tricks! The truth is out there somewhere and sometimes you just can’t help but stumble across it. As they say, “even an old blind squirrel gets an acorn every once in awhile”.

A big southern “H*ll.. yeah” for the 4th of July… ha.. ha… ha..ha..ha..

Sarge.. jt