I have been reseaching 14″ band saws. It is amazing that there is absolutely NO consistency in any of the reviews of any of the saws. The ones I’ve been focusing on are the Jet 14 OS and Delta 28-276, they both get very good AND very bad reviews. I have already purchased and returned the Ridgid from HD. The wheels were so out of balance I couldn’t get it to stop shaking and vibrating, also the tire wouldn’t stay on the upper wheel.
Can anyone here offer some advice? I am not used to seeing this much discrepancy in product reviews.
Thanks,
Randy
Replies
Randy,
It may very well have something to do with quality control. I have walked through a number of equipment suppliers in the last year and have seen Delta equipment that looked like pure junk. I would simply not buy any Delta product any more. I know that is a very sweeping generalization, but that's my honest reaction to actual retail products I have seen.
I don't know about the Jet line.
You haven't asked about Grizzly, but I advise you to look into their bandsaws. I had a 14" for a number of years and can state that for a very inexpensive saw, the machine performed very well. Grizzly has improved many aspects of their machines since I bought that saw and their reputation is very good. They stand behind their equipment with an excellent tech support department.
Rich
Randy....
I would have to agree with Rich's recommendation on the Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've had one with the riser block and it in conjunction with a good "Timberwolf" blade is a hard combination to beat for the price!
Jon
There must be some inconsistency from day-to-day in quality at all the power tool manufacturers. A couple of years back I took a look at Grizzly's new 14-incher with all the bells and whistles. I also shopped Home Depot's saw. I bought a Delta from Lowe's, 28-276, as I remember the number: single speed, open stand, 3/4-hp motor, and a larger table than the competition. It is my favorite stationary power tool. I added a riser block and got a great buy on a 1-1/2-hp motor which I installed. (I am considering re-installing the smaller motor.) I haven't mastered resawing which seems to be a blade problem. I probably cut an abrasive wood with my Woodslicer. I can't say why, but my bandsaw seems flawlwss after a couple of years use. It runs very smoothly. Just my experience.
Cadiddlehopper
Hi there;
I'm going to open up a can of worms here and suggest you look at The 14" from (gasp) Harbor Fright --uh Freight. I don't know where you live, but I drove 30 miles to a retail store. Caught it on sale for 189.00, used a 20% off coupon I got on the internet, and came home with a winner for about $165.oo including tax! Just throw away the blade that comes with it, get your blades from http://www.bcsaw.com in Toronto for about $9 each for 1/2" 3tpi skip, set the saw up according to an article in FWW #173 pg. 166 by Michael Fortune. I did, and with my cheap tool I am able to consistently resaw cherry, maple, red or white oak, ash, purpleheart,etc. to 1/16" with excellent results. The basic quality of the tool is very good ( made in Taiwan), instructions are adequate to laughable, but I was able to get it running in short order. In short, the skill is in the operator. Unless the piece is a total piece of junk, you can get it to work. I've had less trouble with my "frightfully cheap" saw than others in this forum have had with much more expensive "name brand" stuff. A dollar is still a dollar, and if I can do it less expensively and do it as well, I will. Now let the hate mail fly!
Keep in mind that this is merely my humble opinion--and you know what they say about opinions.
I recently researched bandsaws pretty heavily, albeit in the next price category. I ended up with the Grizzly 17" Extreme bandsaw and coulndn't be happier. I think Grizzly offers a lot of bang for the buck so to speak. So far, the majority of use has been rough sawing my own lumber. I rip 5 foot logs on a sled into 1" wide boards and try to get quarter sawn stock as much as possible. I've never had a bandsaw, and now I find I go here to rip stock before the table saw whenever possible...easier feed, less dust, less waste. This saw is extremely quiet and easy to adjust...has a lot of nice features. So I would recommend you take a look at the G0555 for your price range. Grizzly gets rid of the middle guy and gives you a lot for your dollar.
Just saw this in another forum....http://forums.taunton.com/fw-classifieds/messages
I own a 14" Jet and I have been very happy with it. It came without a fence and for the smae cost of this saw you can get the grizzly 14 which I have read good things about. I bought the Kreg precision bandsaw fence to attach to my saw and I was quickly removing the veneer from some oak ply. I really like the saw. It runs well and I don't have a lot of problems with it at all. I have bogged it down a few times while resawing but I must admit that I was feeding the wood relatively fast.
I like my Jet though.
Good luck in your purchase
Thanks for the feedback. I had negative preconceived notions about Grizzly, but it seems like the G0555 might be the way to go.
Thanks again,
Randy.
I have the Grizzly G0555 and love it. I installed the riser block, added a resaw fence, a Lenox Tri-Master carbide tipped blade and resaw pieces at 3/64" consistently. You'll want to replace the factory tension spring with a Iturra spring no matter which brand you decide on. Also, add a couple of tooth brush sized brass wire brush to "sweep" your tires so that dust does not accumulate on the tires. Good Luck in your purchase.
"You'll want to replace the factory tension spring with a Iturra spring no matter which brand you decide on" Why? Because you accept the misguided "advice" that blades need to be overtensioned? The oppopsite is actually the case. Rich
That is the recommendation found here at Fine Woodworking. Just because you have the heavier spring doesn't mean you have to run your blade at the higher tensions. But if you want to do re-sawing, then you will want to be able to achieve the 15000 lbs of tension. Otherwise, back off to 8000 lbs of tension.
What recommendation found here at Finewoodworking?
I have no idea what the actual tension of my bandsaw blade is and believe such numbers have no real meaning. I tension the blade to the lowest setting that works per recommendation of such folks as Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery) and BC blades (Canada).
The "flutter test" described by Timberwolf is one of the most useful machine techniques I have ever learned. The tension indicator on the "scale" on my saw hardly moves off the lowest indication. The saw cuts (resaws) beautifully.
Rich
The recommendation comes from John White, Fine Woodworking Shop Manager. In his articles "Shop Made Tension Gauge" and "Soup Up Your 14" Bandsaw", Mr. White makes these recommendations. I am sorry that you feel it necessary to attack an opposing view, but I think he is the better expert. I was just relaying what I read in his articles and my success at re-sawing after following them. Edited 1/12/2007 8:59 pm ET by Oakhutch
Edited 1/12/2007 9:00 pm ET by Oakhutch
I wasn't attacking anything. There are lots of opinions. If we were allowed to operate according to only one, this would be a pretty sad place. John's a good guy and he gives a lot of good advice. But he is hardly the last word. One of the things you learn about woodworking is that there are often quite a number of ways to go about doing things, and following each of them correctly, generally gets the job done. Why do you label mine an "attack"? Mine is shared by Michael Fortune in his article, "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing," FWW No. 173, December 2004. The best article I have ever read about bandsaw operation and setup. You ought to get a copy. You'll learn something. Rich
I have to second what you said about the Ridgid. Mine performed pretty much as you describe, but I was both intrigued by the challange of making the darn thing work, and put off by the prospect of lugging it back up a steep flight of stairs. After much tuning and replacing of parts, I got it to work just fine - but it took determination.
The problem with Ridgid seems to be consistency of quality control - some folks get good equipment from them, and some folks don't - luck of the draw. My table top saw from them worked fine right out of the box, although, even with the blade off, it sounds like an F104 taking off.
I am a little spoiled, however - worked in the automotive and then the aerospace industry for many years, and when a machine tool turns on, I expect to hear it hum, not shriek! Those machines did cost just a tiny bit more than the Ridgid, however.
Mike D
im a little on the late bus on this discussion but i just went through what you did an i picked the grizzly G0555 an so far i am very happy, but to tell you the truth if i had the cash i would have went with the new 14 " Rikon or even the new Grizzly top 14", but with all that said the one i did end up with is a fine saw for the money, i haven't bought the riser yet! but i will soon. so if you are still looking for a recomendation, in the $400.00 price range i strongly recomend the Grizzly G0555.
I notice a few others had bought the same saw if any of you could send a message my way about any recomendation on the G0555 i would be greatly appreciated.
I've had the Grizzly G0555 for a year now. I've used it for small tasks up until just recently. I'm working on a coffee table and used the band saw for all ripping on this project. I've still got the blade that came with the riser kit on the saw and it cuts great. I've been meaning to get some better blades, but was very surprised at the how well this saw cut even with the crummy blade. I've been very tablesaw centric but I see that changing with this new bandsaw.
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