Replies

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Mar 10, 2004 05:39pm | #1

   I don't have the quick release, but do have the carter guides.  If I were doing it again, I'd sell the saw and invest in a bigger/better saw that didn't need the carter stuff.  Not quick and easy to adjust.  Need to use allen wrenches all the time.  Works OK, but not convenient.  Also you lose a little cutting height.  Saw worked just about as good with just cool blocks.

1. 
   micanopy | Mar 10, 2004 05:55pm | #2

   Thanks for the quick reply. My gut instincts kind of leaned that way. The jury's still out though, especially on the quick release which may be beneficial.

1. 
   BG | Mar 10, 2004 06:11pm | #3

   Butch,

   I just got a Delta 14" back in Jan. from Santa.  The quick release is great...I just have to remember to use it when I turn off the saw.  I guess its slightly easier in changing bands...but not really.  I use the timberwolfs and need to set those up each time using the wheel. 

   From everything I've read there does not appear to be an advantage with the bearing type guides. 

1. 
   Dazz | Mar 10, 2004 06:50pm | #5

   I also have a 14" Delta (without the quick release), and found it aggravating to have to turn that tension knob all the time.  I took a length of steel bar, roughly 4-5" long, approx 1/8 " thick, and drilled holes thru it and thru the top of the metal knob, then bolted the bar to the top of the knob, to make a crank handle out of the knob. I then added a wooden "spinner" knob at the outboard end of the bar. Even I was surprised at how quickly I can now crank that tension rod...it's much faster than turning the knob without a crank handle. And, it cost me nothing.   You should place a spacer under the crank handle (between the bar stock and the top of the original knob) to elevate the crank handle above the top of the wheel cover, for clearance when cranking the handle.  I also placed a little glob of grease under the bottom end of the tension rod, where it turns against the cast iron frame. Works great.

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 10, 2004 06:47pm | #4

   Butch,

   If your saw is properly tuned up, and has a sharp blade appropriate for the job, neither the guides or the tension release will do anything to improve your saw's performance. 

   The stock guide system on the Delta saws, and its Asian clones, works perfectly well with either the original steel guide blocks or ceramic blocks for wider blades and cool blocks or wood blocks for narrow blades.  Even top of the line machines often use simple steel guides, they are simple and they work well with minimal maintenance. 

   In my experience almost all troubles with bandsaws can be traced to an improperly set up machine or having the wrong blade or a dull blade.  The only accessories I would add to a 14 inch saw is a better tension spring and a crank handle for the tensioning knob.  The manuals that come with the machines are generally useless, if you don't already have one, buying a book about using a bandsaw would be the best investment of all.

   John W.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/10/2004 11:16 am ET by JohnW

1. 
   micanopy | Mar 10, 2004 10:04pm | #11

   Thanks for the opinion. I've used the stock saw for many years,but haven't kept up with the improvements.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 10, 2004 06:58pm | #6

   About a year ago, Fine Woodworking did a test/comparison of BS guides. Their conclusion was that the Cool Blocks were the best for general purpose use 14" bandsaws. If the saw was dedicated to resawing, then the Iturra Bandrollers were OK.

   However, they did not like the large diameter roller guides like the Carters. They did not control the blade as well because the large diameter held the blade quite a distance from the workpiece.

   In addition, any metal guide would damage the blade if the blade mistracked and the rollers would also be damaged.

1. 
   micanopy | Mar 10, 2004 09:56pm | #8

   Thanks for the info. I'll check the article out.

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 10, 2004 10:03pm | #10

   If a bandsaw's guides are properly adjusted, a bandsaw blade cannot possibly run into the guides and damage the blade.  Many woodworkers don't seem to know how to properly adjust a saw's guides, but that is hardly a good excuse for using soft blocks when, in most situations, steel, ceramic, or roller guides would give much better performance and require less maintenance.

   The FWW article on guides was in issue #148, March, 2001.  The article clearly said, on the first page, that steel blocks "provide solid support for both resawing and curve cutting", with their only significant downside being the chance that a poorly adjusted saw would damage the blade. 

   We don't judge the qualities of a car by driving it over a curb or doing something else foolish.  I don't see why bandsaw guides should be judged primarily on whether or not they'll damage the blade if the guides aren't used properly. 

   John W.

   Edited 3/10/2004 2:21:13 PM ET by JohnW

4. 
   GHR | Mar 10, 2004 07:22pm | #7

   I guess people are entitled to their own opinions.

   I usually resaw with my bandsaw.

   I run ball bearing guides tight against a 1/2" blade. It keeps the blade aligned better than any system with a gap between the blade and the guides.

   (I have 5 tables half finished in my shop and I have to start 2 more this week.)

1. 
   micanopy | Mar 10, 2004 10:00pm | #9

   It appears that resawing may have different requirements than cutting thinner stock. Thanks for the tip.