Replies

1. 
   Dustmight | Jan 21, 2005 11:23pm | #1

   I just pulled the motor off an older Craftsman saw that I'm fixing up.  It's listed as a 14 amp 1hp motor.  This is a US made motor, presumably made by Emerson.  The US made Emerson motor that was on the Ridgid 3612 was only 13 amps and rated at 1-1/2 hp.  The motor on my CS is a Taiwanese 15 amp motor rated for 2hp and it's really strong.  The HP rating on the motor is not the only indicator of it's ability, and may not even be the best.  I think manufacturers have more of a tendency to overstate the HP now than in years gone by.  You may find that the new blade gives the saw new life.  The right blade is critical.  I'd only consider changing the motor if all the other upgrades leave you wanting.  A link belt will help if your current belt vibrates.

   A good fence is a must for precision and sanity.  The older saw I mentioned above came with a Vega Utility fence, and it's excellent (as a reference, my regular fence is a Biesemeyer).  A new one will run ~ $230 on Amazon.  Ebay may have some used deals too.  Other people like the Mule, but I don't find that it's as rugged as the Vega.  You might also consider the Shop Fox AlumaRip Classic for $200.   

2. 
   Lightman | Jan 22, 2005 04:55am | #2

   Hi Vol

    It's really strange this forum brings in a lot of folks looking for ideas on tablesaws. I was just in your same shape about 2 months ago. I was looking for some suggestions on a new saw.

    I had (still do) a '67 Craftsman ts with the 1 hp and OLD fence. It has cast iron top and sheet metal wings I've used it as is for 7 or 8 years and just got tired of making adjustments all the time.  I thought , as you have, about fixing it up. Now I could have gone the cheap route and found a used or cheap motor and a less than good fence and would have gotten by inexpensively, but would not have had much of a TS. Or could have upgraded w/ a good 2 hp motor, link belt, machined pulleys and good fence. Guess what, you have just about spent what you would on a new saw or at least a big down payment on one.  You still have the old trunion and bearings and bushings.

    I say save your $$$ and buy yourself a new saw. Some are gonna say you don't have to have a new machine of any kind to good work and I do agree with that, but getting a new anything can make you better. It's a confidence thing. If you believe it will make you better it probably will. It can be a new set of chisels or a new set of golf clubs, doesn't matter.

   It's not the machine that makes you better, it's because you will try harder.

   Well that'll get some philosophy masters on this one...lol

    Really Vol, read these different threads and get all the input on which saw you want. I'll leave that one alone. I think they're all good ones.

   Good luck and sorry about all the gibberish.

   Jimmy

    as always I wish you enough

3. 
   mike4244 | Jan 23, 2005 08:06pm | #3

   Keep the saw, you describe yourself as an amature woodworker. There is no need to upgrade yet. You can gain an advantage to low horsepower buy using thin kerf blades.Also use the correct blade for the application. A good combination blade for most work, a good rip blade for more than an occasional rip.

   Adjust the fence with two combination squares. Or make up two adjustable jigs for wide rips. Example, you want to rip a board 6" wide, measure from blade tooth to fence. Set combination squares in miterslot and against fence,tighten .Snug lock lever up, not tight yet with combination at front of saw. Check at outfeed with other combo square. Tap outfeed end of fence to suit if it needs it. Fully lock fence and recheck. This can be done with one combination square. Clamp outfeed end of fence to rail.

   This does not take as much time as it sounds, it works and costs you nothing. When you hit the lottery then you can trash saw and buy a Powermatic with all the bells and whistles.An easy way to set miter gauge square with your particular saw is to place miter gauge upside down in slot. Push up to table front and when head is flush to edge of table, tighten knob.The 1hp motor is suitable for this saw if thin kerf blades are used and kept reasonably clean and sharp.

   mike

4. 
   MarkRD | Jan 23, 2005 08:29pm | #4

   I have what is probably 1960's vintage craftsman TS. 1HP motor. I've been using it for at least 15 years now with great pleasure and success.  I just (last week) put a Vega 50" precision fence on it and now I wonder why I waited so long. Up until then I used the original fence and set it with a tape measure every time I used it (measure from the blade then measure from the miter slot at the blade, then measure at the front of the fence then the back of the fence, adjust and remeasure :-)

    Also, get a good blade. that's what does most of the work - I use a Freud (40? tooth carbide tip - I'll have to check). You can see a bow case I just built at my blog http://www.durrenberger.com.

   BTW, the Vega fence is about $250 at Amazon but if you go with the 50" you're going to need a wide shop. I suspect I could have done fine with the 24" version, but two days after I installed the extension table I ripped down a sheet of 3/4 plywood into 6" strips - the saw hardly slowed

   Another important improvement is to put the saw on a dedicated 20amp service - even through tough wood, the saw does not even hesitate...

   So, good fence, good blade, good power supply and you are good to go.

   Mark

1. 
   biosf1 | Jan 26, 2005 08:44am | #5

   I agree  with you. I have the sear saw that my Father used for many years, and I have used it for more than 20 years now.It's close to 35 to 40 years old. He has been thruogh three saws, from the time he give me this one I am still useing ole reliable. For the last five years I have worked full time building furniture, The thing I like about this saw is the cast iron bed and the two cast extensons ( bought as options ) we changed the motor up to a 1 1/2 hp 3400 rpm years ago. The only thing I need to do very soon is change the arbor bearings. The last time I ordered parts from Sears on something that old I didn't have any trouble getting them, and I was very surprised that I could still get parts that old.

   You might think twice about a new saw, after you check out the price tag. or have to OK it with the wife, I don't have that problem ! ( Wife ) 

1. 
   MarkRD | Jan 26, 2005 05:14pm | #6

   You can see the old craftsman with the Vega fence attached at http://www.pbase.com/durrenm/wood_shop_projects - I've posted these for my dad in FL but I'm happy to share with any other sawdust maker (woodworker) :-)Mark

1. 
   user-257360 | Jan 31, 2005 06:58am | #7

   I have a Craftsman 10" bought new in about 1978.  Nothing fancy but came with a bunch of accessories.   Built about 40+ furniture projects and a deck with it then the 1hp motor died last year.  Also did a fair bit with the molding blade and sanding disk. Replaced the motor with 2hp and Wow!... should have done that a long time ago.  Using carbide tip and hollow ground blades.  I too am now waiting for a link belt to show up and if that gets rid the the vibration that has gotten a little worse over the years (don't think I ever replaced the original belt) I'll be real happy.  I've built several jigs for it over the years so is satisfactory and is as accurate as I need.

   (Oops, this was meant for the original poster but replied to wrong message and can't find  a way to change the "to".)

   Ells

    

   Edited 1/30/2005 11:15 pm ET by Ells

5. 
   wordworker | Feb 02, 2005 12:13am | #8

   I had a Craftsman contractor saw for over 20 years and thought it was fine. . .until I got my Delta Unisaw.  No comparison.  I should have upgraded earlier instead throwing away money on upgrades to the Craftsman.

6. 
   cowtown | Feb 04, 2005 11:38am | #9

   Technology has given the motor folks some improvement in performance since the sixties, but the biggest improvement in performance has come from the marketing folks.

   Just ask yer friendly electrician the games folks play now with HP ratings.

   Yer 60's motor was probably rated for 1HP, maybe for continuous duty, ie it could produce 1HP without stalling all day long,

   Now that same motor might be rated nowadays at 2HP, perhaps the load at which it stalls, or maybe 4 HP , which it might be capable of developing for 5 seconds, or 5 HP if that is the load level at which it self destructs, overloading the circuits, or causing the wires to ignite. (just joking, but I have no idea how they rate HP these days, everyone does something different and it keeps changing. .

   My latest shop vac is rated at 6, ya SIX hp, and it runs on 110v, so go figure. I can run it and 500w of lighting on a single circuit without a problem. How is THAT possible. The motor is no bigger than in an older shop vac, which has a fractional HP rating. It even appears to be the same motor. Go figure, cause I sure can't.

   You likely got 1HP of real 1960's capability, not some of the imaginary and incomprehensible ratings offered by today's varying and confusing standards.

   If it works, it works.

   Want validation? just go to yer local electrical motor rewinder, found in the yellowpages. They'll tell you if you got a good motor or not.
   Betcha you hear a few stories along the way too....

   Eric
   in Calgary