220 router and router table placement
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Hello everyone,
As my last project before I start to work again like a mad man, I want to build a linear work surface that will incorporate my ras, miter saw planer and a work surface in 5′ X 16′ zone that’s up against a wall. To squeeze out de last possible inches of use out of that zone for infeed/outfeed purposes I also want to incorporate a router table. Is this a good idea or should the router table be separate and have more space around it to allow for some unforeseen application. All the applications I can think of would fit in this space but than again I’ve never used a router table before. Any foresight would be appreciated.
Sniffing around for a lift and router for the table, I came across the bosch 1617 in 220 volts. The ras and bandsaw that are close by are already on 220v and hp should suffice since a shaper is probably only a coupe of years away. Any advice for or against the bosch 220 router?
Thanks, as always, to everyone for sharing their experiences.
Rehab.
Replies
I'll jump in.
I am pretty sure that in Europe, power tools (like most stuff) are 220 volts, whereas in North America they are 110. I have never seen a power tools here that is 220 volts, though of course it is common, and more or less recommended, for machinery, welders, and so on.
Bosch has a series of 'professional' tools which are 220 volts which it sells in North America.
http://www.boschtools.com/tools/tools-subcategory.htm?H=175980&G=54938
I suspect they are scarce as hen's teeth, and it may be the case that if you need certain parts or something for one in the future, they may be harder to find than 110 flavors.
The advantage of 220 volts is half the current draw, so less power loss over an extension cord. Besides voltage (and current) the routers have identical specs 100 or 220 volts. The disadvantage would be obvious if you ever wanted to use the router apart from the table: depending upon circumstances, finding a plug may be a problem.
Although all my machinery is 220, I probably wouldn't go 220 for a router or other 'hand tool'. Still, Bosch makes good stuff, so it'll probably work great for you.
Thank you for the reply Piccioni,
The idea of taking it out of the workshop hadn't crossed my mind but it's a very valid point. The point about it being scarce and consequently harder to service in the future might put the last nail in coffin of this idea. I'll have to write bosch to see just how different they are to the 110 model.
Again, thank you for jumping in.
Rehab
I would think your idea would work, but I would counsel constructing the router table separately and mounting it on casters (so the table is the same height as the other tables).
That way, you could simply pull the table out to allow for those times when you need to run long pieces (like moldings).
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Hello Nikki,
I had thought of the casters but I have a uneven concrete floor and I was worried about the surfaces not matching exactly every time. It is however how it's going to have to be built because my router against the wall idea wouldn't allow for using a template and flush trim bit combination beyond a certain length has I realized today.
Thanks for taking the time to trow around some ideas with me.
Rehab.
Could you ut a pair of swivel casters on the back of the router cabinet and permanent feet on the front? That way, you could pull the cab out when necessary by picking it up by the top.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Good idea Nikki. I'll give it a try. There's also an article on here for a planer bed that's adjustable with hex bolts sandwiched between the layers of the table. The combination of fix casters/ legs and adjustable tops should take care of any alignment problems.
thanks.
Rehab
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