Hello,
How major is the installation of a 220v plug and/or circuit in my garage? I want to buy a new table saw. I am using currently a Delta TS350.
Currently trying to gather some limited funds for a bigger one and I have been thinking about the Craftsman 22124 for a while, but then I started looking at the Grizzly 1023SL, which is more or less the same price range, but more saw.
Only problem is, that one requires a 220v circuit. I live in a brand new house where we already have a 220v plug in the laundry room (unused), and the circuit box is on the outside wall of the garage, around the same location where the plug would have to be. So it doesn’t look like a major undertaking (I’m talking about having a professional do it, I don’t touch that stuff).
I am not sure how much that would cost though, and this house is a rental, so I do not want to make more changes than I should (that being said, I just installed wood racks on the walls).
The Delta was a compromise. It was the best I could find with cast iron in that price range. It is clear to me now that I should have put as much money as I could on the TS and waited for ome of the other tools. I don’t want to make the same mistake again. Now the Craftsman looks like a great saw and I’ll probably be very happy with it, but getting one such as the Grizzly seems like a better long term choice, perhaps worth the hassle of dealing with the power issue, as long as that is affordable.
Thanks for any tips!
Replies
It's a simple job electrically.
The time consuming part is likely to be the physical running of wire, involving either drilling holes in studs or putting together conduit. The less of that that has to be done at electricians rates, the cheaper the job. If you have a friend who is an electrician, he might have you do the grunt work, leaving the electrical stuff for him to complete.
The "electrical part" is very simple and won't take long. I've done it a bunch of times, but its not something to do if you are not completely comfortable with it since if this is the main box there will be places that could "bite" when the work is being done.
I'm assuming that there are two unused spaces for breakers in the box. If not there are ways around that, but the job will take longer (and cost more.)
I'm pretty handy and don't mind doing more minor electrical stuff (I have worked as an electrician on a building construction site during certain unemployment period where I still had to put food on the table), or I would say things with smaller consequences if they go wrong, but I'm just not comfortable enough for such a job (and it's not *my* house). I don't mind doing part of the labor though, good suggestion. I'll ask around in case someone knows an electrician but I don't know one myself unfortunately. That would be a useful person to know, right after a hair stylist :)I had a look at the breaker box and there are tons of unused spaces. For the garage I found only a 15 amp breaker shared between laundry and garage, and a 20 amp "GFI" for the garage. Even without going to 220v, it seems that would still need an upgrade eventually.
I just had it done by my electrician when I bought a 5hp SawStop. He put in a 30 amp 240 line and two 15 amp 110 lines for me. Materials and labor cost me around $1,000. Since my plugs were at the far end of my garage from the panel and the biggest expense in today's world is the copper wire, your job shouldn't be so bad. The only way to tell is to get an estimate. If the Griz saw only needs a 20 amp breaker, then it will be even less.
Ouch. If that's what it costs then I'd have to go for the Craftsman, because that will be my whole budget. I'm gonna get a quote...
Like I said, in your case it may be quite a bit cheaper. It's worth checking out by getting a bid. I hope you have a good, reasonable electrician. You might also check with your home's owner before you make any changes to the electrical service.
Edited 7/3/2007 12:25 am ET by basset-hound
If the outlet is close to the breaker panel, you may be able to get the whole job done pretty cheaply. All that would be involved is to pop in a 220 breaker (assuming there is space in the panel -- this requires two slots), and run a short wire to an outlet that can be surface mounted near the panel. If the panel is not recessed behind a finished surface, the whole job could be done in under a half hour. Depending on how the house is laid out, another option might be to simply make up an extension cord and plug your saw into the existing laundry room circuit.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
220 Volt stuff is considered heavy duty. So it comes with many options. These options are down to the plug and socket style and type as they are rated to carry different levels of amps. The circuit is very simple.
Today 4 wires are required. RED for one live, BLACK for second live, WHITE for neutral, bear copper for the ground wire.
Check the power tool you wish to use on this line and get a double breaker to match its requirements. (i.e. MY dewalt table saw required 20-20 amp) The cable size can also be rated for this size of breaker.
This is just the basic stuff you will need. There are many books which will guide you with pictures to suit the process. The books will also guide you in the ways cable should be ran. If your handy, you can do this. Have your local electrical inspector check you work if need be. Also make sure your power tool is wired for 220v before you plug it in! 120v ran on 220v will burn up real quick!
Material cost: could be around $ 150 depending on the length of cable needed and maker of breaker.
An extension cord from the laundry room would run at least 25 feet(would that be safe? That circuit is 40 or 50 amps), and the wall between the laundry and the garage has the water heater taking much of the space there so it's kind of a pain to put the cable through there.As for the circuit box, it is outside, on the outside wall of the garage, so I'm not sure how much work is involve in bringing the new plug inside, but the distance is insignificant. It might even be a max of 2 feet of cabling, let's say just a few feet.
An extension code is not a problem as long as you use the proper size wire. 3 conductor #12 Romex cable can be used and the plug and socket are available at the big box stores like Lowe's or Home Depot. #12 wire will handle 20 amps in a 25 foot length without a problem. Both the plug and socket have 3 connectors and the white and black go to the 2 hot sides and the ground to the neutral. It's basic electric wiring at it's best. No wiring of a hot circuit and only three connections on each end. Run it carefully and put it away when done. Be careful to not drop anything heavy on this, or any extension cord, and it will last for years and be safe too. Cost is very reasonable also, $40 tops. Good luck.
Would this be the right type of cable?http://tinyurl.com/s3ovv
Here's what Grizzly says in their manual:"220V Operation. Use at least a 10 gauge cord that does not exceed 50 feet in length."
Ground and neutral are NOT the same thing. Ground is a safety connection. Neutral is a circuit return path. The only reason they are joined or bonded in the main box is to prevent "floating" voltage on the neutral.
The circuit for the dryer has wire to match the load size. i.e. electric dryer. The circuit breaker is setup to protect the wires in the wall, not what you plug in. You could add a circuit breaker or fuse to protect what you plug in. If the cable will only be 25 feet should not be a problem, but depends what you plug in.
If a pro does this for you then 1/2 day will be the minimum you will be charged cause thats what it will use up.
The more we go the better the Craftsman looks :)Too bad I couldn't buy it when you could have one for $700.
Check out the Dewalt 746, its a fine machine too. i got the 52" rails and sliding table. Very satisfied. It will run on 120v, (use a fat extension cable and the nearest socket to the main electrical box). But works better on 220v.
Because the outlet location is right behind the existing load center, an amateur could wire this in about an hour and an electrician about 15 minutes, so your cost would not be as high as some are saying. I would even check with the landlord to see if he will do it for you. (A lot of landlords are capable of doing simple wiring out of necessity from owning the property.)
The Grizzly manual is wrong (no surprise) in that the circuit does not require #10 wire, nor a 30 amp breaker. It can be 20 amp, #12. You could do all the internal wiring and just hire an electrician to punch the line through the back of the panel and make the connection.
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There is nothing wrong with the extension cord route either, however, you cannot use Romex for the cable, as was previously suggested. Your home center will sell 12/3 stranded SJO (or SJOW better) cable. This has 3 wires, including the ground--not to be confused with Romex 12/2 nomenclature which has two wires, plus the ground (both have a total of 3 wires).
In either case, contrary to what was stated above, the neutral is not used. The saw will not come with a plug on the end, so you can choose the one that suits your needs. For the extension cord option, I would recommend the twist lock type, NEMA L6-20. For the outlet option you could use either the straight blade NEMA 6-20 or the twist lock L6-20.
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Thanks for the specs on cables and plugs. I'm still not sure what route I will go, but I don't need to make a decision yet since I do not yet have the funds. When I do, I will first look to see if I can find a used Grizzly so that I can budget the electrician's cost, or use the extension. If I have to buy the saw brand new, then that might change.
25 feet for an extension cord should not be a problem. I'd use #10 stranded wire if you can get it, attach the appropriate plug ends and you're good to go! I use a contractor's saw that I move around in the shop on occassion, so I use an extension cord -- mine's about 15' and I've had no problems with it.
As for the service panel, are you sure it's outside? Pretty unusual for a distribution panel to be located outdoors.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Morning LeChuck...
Being a rental house.. I would opt for Mike's idea of running an extension cord from the laundry room if the run is not that long. (Opps... just edited as I read your post of the lenght an extention cord would run.. I wouldn't personally).The plug on that end would have to match the laundry outlet which is probably 30A, but I would put a 20A plug on the other end with a Griz 1023 which is 3 HP and required only a 20A 220V circuit.
Installation is very simple in your case also. I recently added 2 220V lines in my shop and one required installing a sub-panel as I out-ran my box. I did it myself with guidance from this and another forum and guidance is required when adding a sub-panel, especially with the neutral wire to avoid looping it. But.. you just need a simple 220V short run line. If I can add a sub-panel.. anyone can literally add a 220V line with guidance.. trust me. ha.. ha...
I don't think an electrician would charge "that" much, but you can get an estimate. Then you have a better picture of where you need to go.
Regards..
Sarge.. jt
Edited 7/3/2007 10:53 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Have you asked the owner of the house it that is OK. The last house that I was in (I owned it) I had a 220 line run for $215.00 and with that they had to change out some of the breakers because of not enough room in the panel box. You might be better off if you had an electrician do the work if you are unfamiliar with the codes.
I have the 1023slx, and you will love the saw if you go that direction. As for the rental property, I would check with your landlord. It amazed me some of the figures that was quoted for a circuit. I put mine in myself and it cost maybe $30.00. I had to get a 20A breaker, recepticle, and matching plug. I already had a box of 12/2 wire and the conduit was 10 bucks. If you have space in the box and its not its not on the opposite end of the house, its not hard. I will say that if you are not comfortable with electricity get a licensed electrician. If I leave this house, I'll do like I did at my last house when I left. I'll remove the wire and put a plug in the panel where the line came through. Good luck.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I'm very interested in the 1023 at its price point but I just read the manual, and man...3 bolts for the blade guard? That's a real downer. The guard on my lowly Delta goes on and off with one wingnut in the back. I constantly take it off when using the crosscut sled and back on.
"
I'm very interested in the 1023 at its price point but I just read the manual, and man...3 bolts for the blade guard? That's a real downer. The guard on my lowly Delta goes on and off with one wingnut in the back. I constantly take it off when using the crosscut sled and back on."
I don't use the stock gaurd. I have an overarm gaurd from Penn State industries. Here is a post I did back when I got the saw. I have moved since then and now have it mounted to the ceiling in my new house. It will work in either configuration. I also have the microsplitter. Its very nice. Good luck. If you get the 1023, you wont regret it. It's solid as a rock. I would love to sell mine and get the new 12" with the eurostyle gaurd that's built into the table. I'm pretty tight though, so I just can't spend the money on something when I have a perfectly good tool doing the job already. Good luck and enjoy the new toy, no matter which brand you pick. Take care.
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=5249.8
.Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Thanks. It would be ideal with an overhead guard, but I can't budget for extra accessories after buying the saw (and a blade in the case of the Grizzly, although I have a Freud already in my current TS).By the way, I was just quoted $265 (all inclusive) for the 220v setup. That just puts it too high.
Afternoon LeChuck...
"It would be ideal with an overhead guard, but I can't budget for extra accessories after buying the saw (and a blade in the case of the Grizzly, although I have a Freud already in my current TS)"... LeChuck
The Freud will work on a Griz.. you could put the simple connection you need on that short run in yourself or with help of a friend for under $30.. and an over-head guard can be made from the stock splitter for under $10 as I use and built..
It does require a few hours effort and labor.. but that's free.
Good luck with whatever you do...
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Thanks Sarge, I will look into building the overhead guard myself. How about splitter and anti-kickback pawls in that case?
LeChuck...
Splitter can be stock, just needs modification.. IMO throw away those d*mn anti-kick pawls that nearly took a finger off me years ago when the saw was not even running.
Add a crown guard on top of the metal splitter by simply drilling two 5/16" holes in the splitter and added a "chunk" of scrap hard-wood. Drill two holes in the "chunk" to co-respond to the two holes in the splitter. Drill another hole for the axle of the plastic over-head shield to pivot on. A standard bolt can be used as an axle, sawed to length with end caps that cost about $.20 apiece at Lowe's. The stock plastic shield can be customized for new shape on the BS.
Then take the "chunk" to the band-saw and vertical sander and.. take a little here.. a little there till the chunk is a more flowing piece and just right. What used to be a "chunk" has suddenly become a very valuable piece of over-head safety as comes on the $30,000 + Altendorfs and other Euro machines called a "crown guard".
Good stuff.. those crown guards! And did I mention they can be done cheaply with a "chunk" of scrap wood? ha.. ha... ha..ha...ha..
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Thanks for the explanations. I will definitely look into that if that can make the guard issue go away.do you ever use a crosscut sled, and if you do, do you leave the splitter on after taking the guard off?
LeChuck...
I never take the guard off nor the 24T rip blade on board. I stickly rip with the TS. All cross-cutting gets done with a Hitachi 12" SCMS with a home-made mobile base I modified to cross-cut up to 16' with support.
Any dadoes beyond the next several days get done on my 2nd TS which has dedicated 6" Super dado head now installed. I am at the moment working on an over-head guard for dadoes on that TS. I used to do them with a router, but my little retired TS came out of retirement to be a dedicated dado specialist when dadoes are called for. With it I can cut one safely with no prior set-up within a minute from scibing where I want the cut.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
I see. Well, I don't have an SCMS or a second TS, which makes the blade guard issue and important one. I gotta be able to take the whole thing out to use the crosscut sled and then back on.
Evening LeChuck... an All
Even though I don't take mine off, it will come off in under 40 seconds with the Sarge-guard (ha.. ha...) semi quick release modification for Uni-saws. Just in case I want to angle a wide panel that won't fit under the 14" width capacity of my SCMS. :>)
I have received 2 e-mails asking for details on the gaurd and I was going to open a thread on it. But.. I will kill two birds with one stone and do it here. A couple of the pics will explain how I got quick release on the Uni. Before I did modify those two simple bolts.. it would take over 6 minutes to take off the guard or guard and splitter.
Now the guard comes off with 2 quick turns of the star knobs in seconds. If you want the splitter off.. about 40 seconds as I added a T knob inside the case that normally requires a PITA trying to get to with a wrench. Added another Star knob on the rear open release that would normally require a socket or wrench and about 2000 turns. The Delta engineers should be ashamed of that design.
So.. for those that ask about the crown guard... pics to follow:
Stock splitter will work or cut your own from a blank. Drill two holes that will correspond with two holes in your block of wood used for the crown guard. If you want to add slots instead of holes.. you can adjust the crown up and down with the height of the blade.
Two T or Star bolts to connect crown to splitter. Drill hole for axle (bolt will work) for your plastic guard. Modify current stock guard or one you have to shape that will pivot as wood moves under the crown guard to the blade.
Hole for dust port optional.. That's all there is.. Life is simple.. And you may note the Euro short fence over the Biesemeyer. I prefer it over a long and it is home-made. It comes off with two quick turns of those thumb screws on the right side in about 6 seconds for whatever you would use a long fence for?
Any questions by those that e-mailed.. e-mail or ask here. I will try to answer ASAP. I'm tired as I have been in the shop all day adding a rear extension to the Uni and building a dedicated dado cutter, etc. etc.
BTW LeChuck.. the Griz will not have the same set-up for quick change on the splitter as a Uni. I could look at one and tell you how to go about it though. The crown guard will come off quickly using the method I have mentioned on a Griz or any other saw without a riving knife as most non Euro's are basically set up the same with splitters.
Regards to all.. I'm outta here to get some rest....
Sarge.. jt
Sarge, thanks a lot for the notes on how you did the guard.
Morning LeChuck..
You're welcome sir.. I am beginning to think that extension cord is not a bad idea in a rental house adapted with the appropriate plugs on each end.
And sorry as I have no intention of hi-jack of the thread with the guard pics.. etc. I have just gotten several e-mails about it and am very busy in the shop and with the house at the moment. I may open a thread tomorrow (have to work latter today) and just move the pics over there as I got several more e-mails inquiring on it and the rear extension I just added to the Uni-saw yesterday.
But... whatever you decide is best for your own scenario, I hope it proves to be the most comfortable solution. Good luck!
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
Sarge,I think that I will also go for th extension, even if it seems like a hassle. If I budget the electrician (and I really don't want to do it myself in this house), then I will be spending what I need to spend on a few extra tools such as a biscuit joiner and a second router, which will be extremely useful (currently building a mortising jig and will need a router that's not in a table). Not too much of hassle plugging and unplugging the machine as the laundry room is a few feet away and can be closed off from the house (for the kids). At least, no big investment that way, who knows how long I will be staying here (although I'd rather not move my workshop again in a long time!). It can all be reevaluated when money is better.Still thinking this through, and monitoring sales and used machines, and it seems like I can make the guard issue go away without too much trouble...
Hey Sarge,
I was looking at the pictures you've posted on this thread and couldn't help noticing how clean your shop was...I'm impressed. Now my questions (in humorous tone) are (a) is this your 'for show only' shop, or (b) do you not only clean, but polish your equipment after use?
Have a good day, and once again...nice shop.
Chris
Evening Chris...
It stays clean for the most part. I have a two car drive under garage (used to be) with a 1/2 basement. I have a good dust collection system with a cyclone sitting central near the two outer doors with the BS, TS, 20" planer and 8" jointer surrounding it.. a DC connected to the router table and SCMS near those outer doors and all my other machines are mobile and can be moved quickly to those outer doors.
I have around 5 shop vacs located at strategic points also for any hand work or whatever else isn't covered by the above. And with those conveniently located, it's a snap to turn one on an get it "now" instead of letting it accumulate.
At times.. it can be real messy when I have multiple projects working. I just finished a white oak kitchen table and chairs several months ago and the stock for a new bedroom suite is sitting on the wood rack. But.. I lay off during the very hot months in Atlanta and do house things. I just finished painting the house inside and outside. I add to a rear deck starting this week-end and then my 8 weeks of vacation start getting used in early fall... where furniture is my priority.
BTW.. on top of the other aids to keep the shop in order, I have a Jet air filter centered over-head. And.... about every two hours or so when I am working.. I open both large outer doors and put on a dust mask. Start in the back of the shop with an electric leaf blower and "blow the whole thing out'. Go upstairs for coffee and to let the dust settle and the Jet do it's thing.. and then back for more.
So yeah.. I keep it clean. Bet you were expecting the short version on how I do it.. ha.. ha... ha..ha...ha..
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Sarge, I'm glad I am not the only person that believes keeping a shop clean is not that much work and in the long run makes things a lot easier. It may come from my years of teaching Industrial Arts ("wood shop") or just my nature but I can't stand to work in a dirty shop, and I will not turn the lights off at night until it is clean. I have a good DC, strategic vacumns, air cleaner overhead, and clean work ethic. Just makes life easier.
I do a lot of woodturning and know a lot of woodturners that seem to be proud of the huge stacks of chips they stand in to work. I always wonder what would happen if they had a fire? I know in commercial shops the insurance companies are really fussy about any piles of sawdust left after hours, real fire hazard in their opinion.
Clean shops are not a sign of no work being done, it a sign of hardworkers that don't want to have to work around uneccesary mess. OK, off my soapbox and back to other things!
Good morning Woodwish...
My exact sentiments as I spend an enormous amount of time there as basically it is just an extension of my home. I don't like my home cluttered and full of dust. I find the every now and then approach during work a better alternative than letting it go and then the time required to do it then.
And that block plane you sat down two days ago doesn't show up a week latter when you do clean up. Same scenario outside with the lawn. I keep it mowed frequently as allowing it to get knee high doesn't take nearly the time it requires to "bush-hog" it down so you can see the street. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
My regards for industrial arts teachers. I took the class ( I understand that it is not even offered in many cases anymore) back in 64-65 in H.S. That combined with an uncle who built houses that still stand from tools he carried in a 4' and 3' tool-box is the main reason I do this today. In those days there were not a lot of sources for WW info as is enjoyed by the entry level today with instant access.
Highest regards for having the patience to work with teen minds and current manors... :>)
Sarge.. john thompson
Hello Sarge,
From reading your postings, I've learned you have a great sense of humor and you are usually very informative in your writings. Actually, I ended up learning some nifty ideas from you on shop housekeeping which made posting my humorous query worthwhile.
Just another interesting sidebar to the original thread, after all, if we only stuck to the original posting, the threads would die off rather quickly and interesting tidbits of information may never be exchanged.
Have a good day my friend, I hope you got the rest you needed.
Chris
Morning Chris...
Thanks for the kind words. On a side-note, I see you are from the Gettysburg area. My lovely wife is from around the Altoona-J'town area. She came to visit her sister long ago who temporarily lived next door to me at the time. I had a knock at the door one evening and there she was with an empty cup asking to borrow a cup of sugar. Yeah right... I didn't fall off a turnip truck yesterday. Women and their phony lines to lure we poor, help-less guys into their web.
The good news is she was refused the cup of sugar as I saw through her deception as clearly as the water that runs down my drain. The bad news is she never left the house and is still here 21 years latter. Well... she is 12 years younger and kind of good looking, but she now knows better than to come knocking asking for hand-outs. ha.. ha..
Yep... those side notes can make life interesting.. very interesting indeed! he........... :>)
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Afternoon Sarge,
For a little more diversion from the original post, yea, Altoona is about 1 1/2hrs west of me. My dearly departed friends and I used to ride our scooters over and through there just for 'gits and shiggles' cause that mountainous area is so doggone beautiful and the bars were pretty wild.
Do you realize what a lucky man you are??? One could say it's every man's dream to have the perfect woman knock on the front door 'wanting a cup of sugar'. From the sound of it, sugar in the cup wasn't really the 'sugar' she was looking for...sugar (hee hee hee ho ho ho ha ha ha).
When I first met my lovely wife, she was seeing a fellow tenant where I was living, it was a brief encounter. It wasn't till several years later when I was working on one of my dearly departed friend's house that this really good looking bikini wearing babe was living next door and heading for a swim in the creek. My friend said she just started living there with her sister and that one day he was planning to ask her out.
I said to friend, "I love ya dearly bro, but you're too late... I'm gonna meet her now..." So in the creek I went for a swim and some chatting with her. We decided we would get together that weekend for a rafting trip down the creek ending up at my place. Now I only lived maybe a mile as the crow flies but following the creek was about 2 1/2 miles. Anyway, we got together that weekend and it wasn't til halfway through the trip that we realized that we had met before, and where. I/we also learned how strong our attraction was for each other when we first met, but she being faithful to who she's with and I won't covet what another person has...but...in the back of both our minds at the time was...WOW!!!!
Come to think of it...I guess I'm a lucky man too!
Chat with you later...
Chris.
wow, that's some interesting set up on your saw.Is that an alternative style feather board to the left of the cut?And what is that thing on your fence? (white and box like)
I've never seen that before. Good work on the overhead guard. does it catch most of the dust?-vincent
Morning Vincent...
Just caught your post as heading down to the shop now. The feather-board is actually a "spring-board" made from a piece of scrap birch ply-wood. Simple and cheap and IMO.. functions better than a feather-board.
The thing over my Biesemeyer fence is a home-made "short fence" as used on the European TS. The fence is adjustable to slide to and fro to find the final point the stock is severed, depending on the thickness of the stock. The theory (truth IMO) is that there is no need for continuance of the fence once the final sever is made. Any length of fence beyond that serves no purpose except for stock that has already been cut to re-bound off of and into the back of the blade (kick-back scenario) when you encounter reaction wood (stock that contains a high degree of compression that is released when severed and causes the stock to spread radically or close and pinch the blade.
"Does the over-head get most of the dust".. vince
With a 6" cyclone hose attached to rear.. all holes, gaps, etc. sealed with campers tape.. a 2 1/2" line to a dedicated Shop Vac beside the saw the answer is: It gets nearly all the dust and not by accident. ha.. ha...
I have had several inquires as yours by e-mail concerning the home-made crown guard.. fence and extension I just added to the rear. I may start a thread ( I did one that is somewhere in the archives) on the subject over the week-end or early next week to avoid answering e-mail as it is a busy time at the Sarge house-hold. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Any additional questions... watch for the thread which may get titled with something to the effect of TS safety mods or similar.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Edited 7/7/2007 11:03 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
LeChuck,
When I bought the 1023 I called an electrician and he told me what to buy. I then ran the wire myself and he stopped by for 10 minutes to do the final hook up. He charged me $50...the supplies were about another $25.
There are plans on the net for a self made set up that you can make yourself. As to the 220 cost, that aint bad if you don't feel comfortable to work with electricity, pay someone. Good luck. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
As you already know tools and brands are one question that will stir up some heated conversations but in the end it's what your comfortable using. That said here is my take - stay away from Craftsman, I know - I had one and no matter how hard I tried to set it up it would not stay the way it was set for very long - I don't know much about
Grizzly but I do know and love my General TS. The one I have is convertible - it can be switched from 110v to 220v, which is the way I am using it. In the situation - the house being a rental you would have the benefit of upgrading to 220 or staying 110. Setting up the line is not to costly for 220 and the draw from the saw at 220 is less, (amp)
Take it from another who has bought a saw less then what I wanted just so I could buy all the other tools I thought I would need right away. I was lucky that Sears took the saw back - it may have been because I also had my hand wrapped up from a bad cut - the saw had serious kick back problems and vibration was very bad - they checked it out and called me to say it was because of a problem with MFG. and they could not fix it - my money back. Now I only buy a tool as I need it - I check every brand I can find - ask everyone what they think about my choice and spend every dollar I can to buy the very best I can - some I have even found used on the web. It hurts a little to make the purchase but now I never sit back and think should I have bought something better and the tools I have will be with me for years - a life time for hand tools.- Just make sure that you know if woodworking is just a passing fad for you or a life long adventure.
Edited 7/5/2007 8:16 pm ET by shoprat
Given the excellent feedback from buyers of that particular Craftsman tablesaw, I can hardly ignore it. I also usually ignore brand related prejudices (or strong opinions I guess) and concentrate on the feedback for a specific tool. I really don't buy a brand but a tool.I have a Craftsman 12" bandsaw from their current lineup, and I am *very* happy with it (except I'd like it to be bigger of course).
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