Hi.
I am a bit of a newbie to woodworking. I am interested in making the folding table in the recent issue #299. I’m looking for more specific dimensions and construction info on making the base. Can anyone point me to where I might find this?
Info on making the top itself is good. Just looking for a bit more on the base/legs.
Thanks
Replies
Unfortunately I don't think you will find them. That base is relatively simple for a woodworker of moderate experience to assemble, but I can understand it might challenge a less experienced one.
You could always find a similar base with more complete instructions and adapt its dimensions to fit this table.
Or if you really want this base here is how I see it.
In a nutshell it seems to be simple legs tapered on 2 sides, this commonly done on a tablesaw with something called a tapering jig. These can be shop made or purchased. You can find numerous plans in the FW archives or YouTube. Sources for buying one include Rockler, Woodcraft, Woodpecker for the well funded desiring the best. The dimensions top and bottom are clearly given in the article what is missing is the length of the leg. Depending upon you skills with Geometry and Trigonometry you can either calculate this or maybe even better to give you a feel for the concept make full size drawings and simply transfer the measurements from these.
Joining the aprons can be done in a number of ways depending on tools, skills and personal preferences. Mortice and tenon is the classic method, but dowels, domino's, or biscuits will all work in this low stress joint.
Thanks! I’ll do some research.
A few years ago Garrett Hack did a small table with raked and splayed legs that are tapered down their full length. You could find the plans for that table in the Taunton Store and modify the lengths of the aprons to suit. The plans include the full details for the legs and aprons.
Great! I’ll checkout the Taunton plans.
I have done some crude(by Dave Richards standards) SketchUp drawings that may shed some light on some of the measurements. The angle of splay is only 3° so all your angled cuts should be at this setting.
I arbitrarily used a 3½" apron height but you can adjust this as you see fit. The apron also has a ¼" front reveal for both appearance and easier construction. Flush aprons are much trickier to construct the reveal provides a little margin of error.
The Apron boards are also beveled 3° top and bottom and the ends are mitered 3° once these cuts are made again, there is a definite inside and outside face so mark them clearly to avoid confusion.
By the way although I only show the side view the front and back Aprons are exactly the same just 9" longer.
The legs are taper on the 2 inside faces only so it is important to keep the faces straight, so mark them carefully with pencil or chalk. Mark out your mortise carefully and double check them before cutting. It's always a good idea to fill the waste area if the mortise with hatch marks using a pencil or chalk. I've shown a stop mortise and shoulder tenon for ease of construction and to allow a margin of error. This type of mortise is easily cut with a router/router table while the shoulder tenon isn't as demanding as as a conventional mortise and tenon joint. As I said earlier feel free to make this joint in any way your skills and tools permit, but do try to test your skills and learn at least one new skill on every project.
If you have any questions check back I'm sure someone will have the answer. A bit of advice my grandfather gave me; in woodworking there is never only one way to do something so the important thing is to figure out works best for you and the piece you are working on.
@esch5995, good work.
I decided to make a SketchUp model of the table, too. Things can be a little deceptive with the 3° rake a splay. The angles on the ends of the rails are close to the 3° or the legs due to the double angle thing but the ends are angled toward the inside, too.
You definitely took it much further than I did, but yeah the angles to add a twist to it.
A twist is a good way to put it. The legs do end up very slightly twisted. ;)
A hand plane is another great way to taper stuff. Build the legs straight and then draw squares on the bottom for where you want the legs to taper to. Take short strokes at the bottom of the leg and progressively longer ones towards the top. Use a straight edge and square to keep things in order.
Just for fun I went ahead and finished it up.
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