I’m working on a 9 ft table. The top will be 2x pine lumber (1.5” thick). I am planning to use 4×4 posts in the corners and 2×4 aprons, all construction grade pine lumber. With a slight overhang of the table top and the 4×4 posts I’m looking at a span of about 8 feet for the 2×4 apron that runs the length of the table.
Is an 8 foot span is going to be strong enough if I ever decided to stand on my table? I’m 270 lbs.
All of the charts or calculators to figure out load strength I’ve found online are for joists or rafters, not furniture.
Thanks!
Replies
Realistically, you can use joist live load formulas to know if you can stand on it....
At 215, I might get up on it, but I wouldn't hang out long. However, I have made workbenches out of rough 2x4 construction lumber with simple plywood tops that have lasted for years with no sag. As I think about it though, I never ran a span that long. Although, I don't think I would trust a full 8' span. I would expect it to sag.
How wide is the table? And will you just be standing on it, or dancing as well?
First know I am not an expert but will put my two pennorth in.
You are making a VERY thick table with some pretty chunky joinery.
In terms of preventing sag, you will be using a 5.5 inch thick piece of timber (1.5 from the top and 4 from the apron) which should be more than enough to span 8' without noticeable sag.
If you were to make the aprons a little wider, you would have added security - why not cut a nice curve out of a 2 x 6 leaving 4 inches in the centre. It will reduce the very heavy look and also give additional strength.
If you are set on the 4 inch thickness, try placing a 4x4 on 2 blocks 8' apart. Stand on it and see how little it moves. I would have no qualms driving my car over it...
John_C2: The tabletop will be about 40" wide. And no dancing... maybe just changing a light bulb :-)
Rob_SS: The heavy look is what we are going for. I'll see if I can find a 4x4 post lying around to try standing on it.
Yeah, I guess it is a kinda thick top, as Rob_ss noted.
Out of curiosity, how will you be joining the lumber for the top?
fivebirds, I was thinking a biscuit joiner and glue but I’m open to suggestions. We are going for the rustic look, so my wife was thinking we’d even leave the rounded corners on the lumber.
This is kinda the idea... but ours would be longer.
With 40 inches wide, I would put a couple more 2x4s lengthwise under the top. Before adding the top, it would look like you were framing a wall. Use a 2x6 in the middle instead of a 2x4. It will be stiffer, and in far enough that no knees would hit it.
I would use mortise and tenon joints to join the rails with legs. Biscuits are a lot weaker.
John C2, I was hoping to make the legs removable for ease of moving the table later. But that’s a second priority to wanting strength. Are there others options you are aware of for brackets or fasteners to attach the apron and legs that still provide the strength needed? Or is mortise and tension just the best option here? I’ve never done them before, but enjoy learning new techniques.
Most commercial dining tables have removable legs for shipping and storage. The aprons are fixed to the top, and a diagonal bracket connects the two aprons. The leg will have a bolt protruding through a hole in the metal bracket. The hardware is very common.
I have made tables similar to yours. But we had to be able to readily remove the legs. Utilizing fixed aprons improves the strengthoverall. Making the diagonal corner brace large and thick also helps. Using 1/2" hanger bolts in the leg that screw into a Tee-nut makes the legs secure and strong. But a square leg cannot be screwed in and guaranteed to be square with the table when tight. Solved that by making the legs into octagons on the router table and then it cannot be readily noticed if they all do not align the same around the table. Particularly a large table.
Try a test leg to see how well it would work for you in terms of appearance.
Cool. I’ll plan to either use the brackets or hanger bolts. Great ideas!
I’ll also add either a 2x6 down the middle or a couple more 2x4 lengthwise for support.
Thanks for the help everyone!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled