32 mm line boring machine w/drill press?
Hi to all,
I want to drill holes using the 32 mm system with 5 mm holes and exploring my posibilities, of course, I can buy any of the machines on the market for that purpose, but that requires to spend a good amount of cash, the other option I found very interesting is using the festool hole system, spending some 400 bucks for it.. I found some other technique using a router and a wood template, which was the most affordable, but could not put a 5 mm bit in my router ( I found Festool sells one , but with an 8 mm shank.. not even a 1/4 inch, the 5 mm bits for line boring machines have a 10 mm shank) , so I was wondering if someone here , in any part of the world come up with an idea , technique that I could do holes spaced 1 1/4″ apart, with the 5 mm drill bit in my drill press? They are a lot of holes, the vertical panels are 84″ , so each panel could get at least 120 holes per side! Anything I could put on my drill press and start making holes? I spent the last 3 hours searching and researching.. there has to be a genius out there… there has to be.. My drill press working as a line boring machine making 7-13 holes at a time.. ( am i dreaming or stilll typing..?)
Manny
Replies
Manny ,
Blum made a line bore for the drill press , I have one that I don't use .
dusty
Do you have some more info on that? Would you have a model number? Could you post a picture maybe? Thanks
interested in selling your blum line boring jig. if so how much . thanks gerry
Leigh makes an 8mm reducer for your router.
1/2" to 8mm collet reducer (Leigh No. 172-8)
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Samuel P. Huntington
Dear Manny,
I was in the same position and the best bang for the buck is a Delta product, of all things:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-32-325-Horsepower-Spindle-Machine/dp/B00002237W/ref=sr_1_54/104-3470270-2257560?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1173319065&sr=1-54
I am not a Delta Fan, by any means, but I can vouch for this machine. It accepts 1/4" & 5MM bits, and will drill, clean, repeatable holes. That is, once you set the machine up, if you goof, (Not that I do!) or forget something, it is a piece of cake to drill a new piece. It almost makes you want to build something! I know that it's not cheap, but the next step up is BIG one. This takes the tedium out of an unrewarding job.
Best,
John
Hey John,
Thanks for your reply.. for that kind of money, I guess if I am lucky, I can get a pneumatic one like Detel or Hettich , or Ritter, or one of those, but I did see that one in the website you sent, and yes, it will definetily helps!
Manny, I made and tried marketing a set of templates back in the mid eighties that used a plunge router for the drill. It works great. I can drill 90 holes per minute. It was just too far ahead of its time back then. I couldn't get the locals to give up their face-frames.
I had Do-All Mnf. or someone like that make some 1/2" to 10mm bushings that I bonded to the bits with permanent lock-tite. Sorry, I won't let the bushings go without buying the template set.
I still have some back there somewhere. $200 will get the set. The payback is about a half day.
Could you email me any picture you have of it? Thanks,
I don't have any in digital format, but I will be happy to shoot some tomorrow, and send them to you. What plunge router do you have? Back when I made these, Makita, Ryobi, and Hitachi were about the only plunge routers on the market, and they all came with a 18 mm guide bushing, so I made them using that size. This would be something else that is critical.
Ok thanks, I will see the picture.. routers: Festool, Makita , hitachi an PC.. and they have all kind of collars...
Hi Manny, and anyone else who would like to see this template set-up, I have taken some photos that I will be happy to email to you. I will try to send them through here. If they don't come through though, send me an email, and I will return them to you. Let me know if you are on dial-up, and I will make them smaller.I really need to do a video clip, so you can see how fast this is to really make it more meaningful. As I stated earlier, I can do 90 holes in a minute, or 1.5 per second, and they are never fuzzy.I set it up so that the hinge cup is always 2 1/2" from both ends, so there is no need to keep up with R or Left swing when drilling. But one of the best things is being able to mount drawer slides for a stack while the parts are just that laying on a bench-top rather than reaching back into the box, trying to get those screws in the back, just kills my neck.
I was using the jig from rockler for a while and still do at times but I took the plunge and ordered the 13 spindle unit from delta and so glad I did. Works great, quick and easy. I also used it to pre-drill the adaptor strips to hiding the screws on my deck. Stop messing and order one!
Manny- The Eurotools set up is great. It uses a drill mounted bit and a template.
Now, I experienced the same lengths as you- in pantry units, and decided to park their drill guides and make my own out of some 2/4 or 3/8 thick HPL.
I made two guides which clamp onto a 3/4" aluminium channel- and clamp on to the rabbets on the gable with cam-locks-, they give me up to 40" of holes, and I can bore all the holes on a gable at a single go.
I don't even have to slide material back and forth- it just sits flat on the assembly bench while I bore. .
As for set up, it seems that for every kitchen I do, I'm lucky to get three sets of gables with the same boring pattern. A complex set-up regimen ain't time/effort effective. Gables run from 14" to 40", with the odd one running 7', so a fixed machine set up is gonna require 12-14' clear space (for these I just use my jig from each end...)
I dunno it works for me. The material doesn't move, less risk of damage, and the jig only takes up a few square inches of space between shelves when not in use.
And it can go on site with me with little effort
Eric
Manny,
Check out the PRO jig on MEG Products.com. I have the Festool system and don't use it anymore because I like the aluminum jig from MEG.
Terry
Thanks a lot, I checked it out.. tell me ... which one did you get... I am having a hard time finding a 5 mm bit that will fit on my router ( festool, hitachi,etc)..
Manny
Manny,
I have the pro made out of aluminum. I use the 1" spaces and a 1/4" bit for my shelf pins, but I' m sure you can get a 5mm bit with a 1/4" shank.
Terry
32 MM boring
I have designed, built, improved over the last 4 years, and am selling my Schmitt 32 drilling system. It uses a plunge router with a collet bushing to accept a (10 mm shank) 5 mm bit to drill precisely located clean chip free holes in frameless cabinet side panels for installing hinge plates, drawer slides, and for adjustable shelves. It can be used to drill adjustable shelf holes in face frame cabinets, bookcases, Closet organizers etc.
The system is very fast. Place both left and right pre sized and edgebanded side panels onto the fixture at the same time, (no measuring or marking are required) drill only the necessary holes. (a 4 drawer base cabinet requires only 8 holes per side, whereas a 1 drawer, 1 door, 1 adjustable shelf base cabinet would require 18 or more holes per side ) On our time test we found that it took 3 to 4 minutes working at a moderate speed to place two panels onto the fixture, secure the panels, drill 18 holes in each panel, and without removing the panels, install and secure the drawer slides and hinge plates.
Contact me [email protected] 715-449-2273 cell 715-610-2223
Schedule a demonstration at or near my centrial Wisconsin location, or request a CD with demo and photos.
32mm line drilling
I've seen a simple inexpensive drilling system yhat works with a home built jig to drill extra long panels. Also it comes with a 10mm to 1/2 inch collet adaptor.
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