Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 31, 2006 09:42pm | #1

   If you use a plunge router with a plunge bit to bore the holes, there is no tear-out.  The bit turns so fast that there is no time for the wood fibers to tear.   I don't know that particular jig, but I'll bet there's a way to use it with a plunge router. 

1. 
   ram | Oct 31, 2006 11:07pm | #2

   Great tip, thanks! -robert

2. 
   Scrit | Oct 31, 2006 11:51pm | #3

   "I've used both a 12V cordless with fresh batteries and a much more powerful corded drill -- similar results."

   The question is, at what speed? Most cordless drills can't do more that 1,400 rpm. At lot of corded drills peak at under 2,000rpm. A point-to-point (industrial) borer runs at somewhere between 3,000 and 6,000 rpm. If you have a compressor, even a small one, your drills could be drilled much more cleanly using a 3/8in air drill - many of these peak at 2,600 or even 3,000rpm and cut much more cleanly. You'll find they're better on pocket holes, too.

   Scrit

1. 
   ram | Nov 01, 2006 07:09pm | #4

   Sounds simpler than puzzling out a plunge router adaptation for the jig.  Do you have suggestions of who makes a good air drill like you described?

   Thanks! -robert

1. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 02, 2006 12:45am | #5

   The first thing I would try would be to hone the spurs on the brad point drill you are using. A cordless is generally too slow, but with even a cheap corded drill, you should be able to get a clean hole with a sharp bit.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   Scrit | Nov 02, 2006 12:55am | #6

   Well for a quality tool there's Chicago Pneumatic, but they are a Rolls-Royce quality with a price tag to match. Personally I just use relatively low-cost Chinese/taiwanese drills from out local equivalent to Home Depot (my 3/8in drill cost circa $45)

   Scrit

3. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 02, 2006 02:05am | #7

   Dear Ram,
   What material are you drilling? I have an entry level line bore ( Delta) and the don't turn all that fast and I almost never get tear out. The only time is when I am pushing the machine too hard.

   Best,

   John

1. 
   ram | Nov 02, 2006 09:21pm | #8

   I'm drilling B-3 grade 3/4" birch plywood for the most part.  -robert

   EDIT:  BTW, how much did the delta line bore set you back?

   Edited 11/2/2006 2:23 pm by ram

1. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 02, 2006 09:46pm | #9

   Dear Robert,
   I am not sure what grade B-3 is, but Birch ply is what I drill all of the time. (A1 & A2) I think that the whole mess ran me around $1400.00. I have had it for about three years and I'm sure that prices have gone up.http://www.toolsplus.com/del32-325.html1) Line Bore
   2) Stand
   3) Mobile base
   4) Foot pedal attachment
   5) BitsFor me, it is a necessity as a hand injury has resulted in quite a bit of loss of feeling so, drilling individual holes, is not much of an option anymore. The machine is very good, although loud to my ears. A lot of gear noise. The only trouble that I have had was with the main shaft loosening up. A little dab of "locktite" on the set screw cured that. One thing that is wonderful to me is that there is almost no setup time. I just walk over to the machine, light it up, drill a bunch of holes, and I can keep going. BIG time saver. Oh, and they are always spaced correctly! (Unlike when I used do it) I use 1/4" bits although 5mm seem more the standard. I use it professionally, and I am not at all patient with "junk". It's no Rolls Royce, but it does its job well. Let me know if you want any more info.Best,John

1. 
   ram | Nov 02, 2006 09:51pm | #10

   Thanks a million, John, that's a lot of great information! -robert

1. 
   JMartinsky | Nov 02, 2006 10:15pm | #11

   Dear Robert,
   My pleasure. I'm not sure if it makes any difference to you, but "Tools Plus" is running some kind of special next week.http://www.toolsplus.com/tool-a-rama.htmlBest,John