Replies

1. 
   Peter36 | Dec 20, 2004 02:19am | #1

   If you have a sliding bevel square then lock it in the corner and then measure it on your saw 91* or 89* etc. Let me know when you have this and I will tell you the correct angles. Is your saw a slider, how big is the blade, and does it cut on both bevels?  Measure the corner angle at the bottom edge of where the crown will be. If you do not have a sliding bevel then cut some scrap wood until you have the corner right and let me know.   Here are some of the close angle combinations....88* 30.5 bev-36.2 ang.    89* 30.3 bev-35.7 ang. 91* 29.7 bev-34.8 ang. 92* 29.4 bev-34.3 ang   Hope this helps.

   
   

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   Edited 12/19/2004 8:42 pm ET by Peter36

2. 
   pockethole | Dec 20, 2004 06:26pm | #2

   The following link includes a table of SCMS bevel and miter settings for both 58/32 and 45 degree crown molding.

   http://dewalt.com/us/articles/printable.asp?ArticleID=2

3. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 20, 2004 07:07pm | #3

   Nearly every professional that I have ever met cuts their crown moldings laid up against the fence at the angle which it will lay when installed.  This simplifies the math by totally eliminating it.  You are having problems because you are not coping your joints too.  There is a VERY good reason why nearly every pro will cope their inside miters.  The act of nailing will often push the molding tighter into the corner (especially on the base of the molding).  When a joint is properly coped this slight movement makes a miniscule difference in the fit but if it is mitered the joint will gape open showing every millimeter of this movement.  It does take time and practice to make nice coped joints but the worst coped joints that I have ever done were better than an average mitered joint (speaking here of inside corners in crown moldings).

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Dec 21, 2004 04:57am | #6

   Hear, hear.  Good advice.

   I've also used a spindle sander to clean up the cope a bit and make a nice smooth edge.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 21, 2004 06:26am | #7

   I've installed lots of crown and I always use a home made miter saw (hand) and a coping saw.  I make the miter saw box for each job with the inside width being what is needed for the crown at hand.  The width and height is such that the crown will be held in the box at the same angle it will be on the wall.  Cut one end of the crown square and cope the other end.  Fast, simple, and makes a perfect fit regardless of how bad the wall is off from 90.  (speaking only of inside corners here)

   Also, I have never installed crown directly to the wall.  I use a decorative cut backer board.  Nail that to the wall then apply the crown to it.  But, only nail the backer board to the wall where it touches the wall.  Crown should never be forced to fit.  Tack the top of the crown only where it touches the ceiling.  I've always used a table saw with molding knives to make the decorative backer board.  That way you can get any pattern you want.

   My biggest job was about 1500 linear feet of 8" spanish oak crown to be stained with no filler allowed (old spanish mansion in Tulsa).   The plaster guys had to do lots of work before the crown could be installed.  Made a ton of money on that job.  I think it all went into my kids teeth.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

4. 
   dryhter | Dec 20, 2004 11:59pm | #4

   You have to learn to cope. The corner will always,always open up when you secure it.

5. 
   Eric | Dec 21, 2004 01:40am | #5

   You really should cut the cope.  I've found that a tile blade on a dremil tool works far better than a coping saw or a box-cutter.  To trace the line you the stock like you were going to miter it, and then use the dremil tool to cut the miter back to the cope.  Again, it's not all that hard once you've done it once or twice -- really.  Good luck.

6. 
   ASK | Dec 21, 2004 09:59pm | #8

   Terence,

   I built a u shaped 3 sided jig about 18" long with a bottom, front and back. The moulding fits into the jig at the angle it will be attached to the wall and ceiling. For a 90 degree cut I set the compound miter saw at 45 degrees and the cut is done correctly.

   ASK