Replies

1. 
   DougU | Feb 05, 2006 06:44am | #1

   I dont think there is a quick and easy way to do it!

   Maybe so but I dont know it, I just do the trial and error method, more error then anything else.

   Doug

2. 
   highfigh | Feb 05, 2006 07:50am | #2

   Use a fence and don't worry that the locking part is dead centered, just make sure the bit doesn't raise or lower in the router before the second cut. For the flat cut, use a push block and use a feather board for the vertical cut if you do it that way.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
3. 
   JerryPacMan | Feb 05, 2006 06:50pm | #3

   Check out the link below.

   http://cmtusa.com/store/index1.ihtml?x_page=store.ihtml&id=CID9570299815&step=2&parentid=&menuinclude=leftnav_products.ihtml

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .

4. 
   lamadriver | Feb 06, 2006 06:52am | #4

   When used right and after a little experience, this is a terriffic bit but can be quite intimidating. One other suggestion I found and tried that helps is to attach a waste piece on top of your piece flush with the edge that is being cut for some better control. Variable speed is a must on hardwood or nibble just a little at a time by moving the fence. Even on 3/4 stock you are really taking a big chunk of wood in one pass. Use caution and setup carefully as this is one nasty bit.

5. 
   dchyatt | Feb 07, 2006 06:25am | #5

   The Lee Valley website has instructions for setting up to use this bit. Look for the page with the lock miter bit.

6. 
   Ricks503 | Feb 09, 2006 07:52pm | #6

   I just bought a $5 setup block for this bit.  Have not used it yet, but saw it demoed at a woodwork show by the Freud rep and it worked well - that is why I bought it.

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   cicero | Feb 11, 2006 09:06am | #7

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1.

   Could I suggest that there are easier ways of doing the above.That is if you want to save time..

7. 
   vern | Feb 11, 2006 09:38pm | #8

   I have used the lock mitre for several years --I learned to cut 3/8 thick stock because I don't think there was a junior when I started-- on the initial setup ( I say initial because once you have achieved a perfect joint, be sure that you cut some extra pieces and set them aside after marking them also if you make table legs from 3/4 stock and you need to glue up ends and sides ,you need some cheater boards to slide into these cuts so you can clamp up , this will protect the mitre ) Back to the initial set up -- you realize that there are two variables -fence location and bit height -- on the horizontal cut -the three sections should be each a 1/3 of the total thickness of the stock-- If you can achieve that , the vertical cut will fall into line -- anything thicker than 3/8 I fasten shimes to my fence and sneak up to the final cut -- the long grain cuts are the easiest and the cross grain the toughest( like cutting box joints ) better leave some extra width so you can trim off the bad edges-- keep the bit as sharp as you possibly can -- I have a Porter Cable 690 dedicated -- I've tried a speed reducer and if you didn't use shims, a speed reducer might help but it seems like one piece of walnut will mill nicely and the next piece not so nicely good luck

   making sawdust