I have a DC with a 5″ intake, it came with a funny Y adaptor that drops it down to two 4″ intakes, and this sounds good but the stupid things are pointed at 45degree angles. I need to go up straight not at that huge angle. So is there a source for 5″ connections? Preferably plastic?? I know metal is better, but plastic is cheaper and simpler to work with, (more the money then the working)
Now that I have walls in the shop it is about time that I connect the DC up like it is meant to be connected.
Also as an aside to this has anyone used the remote fob systems to start the DC like they sell at WoodCraft? I was thinking this may be a simple fix to start the DC.
Doug
Replies
5" sheet metal elbows at HD might work. I use the fob switch. I hang it on the front of my shirt while working. All I have to remember is to turn on and off and open and close gates. Sounds simple doesn't it. ha ha
Oneida has 5" pipe, elbows, reducers, etc. As for plastic, you may be able to find 5" DWV pipe in PVC, but 4" and 6" seem to be more commonly used.
I haven't used the Woodcraft remote control, but my Steel City air cleaner has one. It works pretty much the same as a remote for your TV, etc.
-Steve
Doug -
I have a Jet 1100A DC set up like yours. I think that the idea is to run two short duct runs rather than one long one. You should be able to use 4" elbows (or sweeps) to go vertical, then branch "legs" off to wherever you have your tools. The 45* on the DC actually helps maintain the air flow since a 90* + a 45* is less restrictive than 2 90*'s
If you only need one duct run you can cap off one of the 4" inlets (mine came with a cap). You will probably find it easier to find 4" duct, gates, and fittings than 5".
I also have a Shop Fox remote and wouldn't be without it. (I made my kids get it for me for Xmas a few years ago by telling them that they were out of the will if they bought me another @@%^#$ flannel shirt. - lol) Mine has two "clickers" and one hangs on the TS near the switch with the other one on the wall at the other end of the garage. I'm never more than 2-3 steps away from one of them and since they're "permanently" installed, I never lose track of them. (Wish I could say the same thing about the TV clicker, my cell phone, pencils, and glasses. - lol)
Yeah that is most likly the idea, however this thing alows for the feed to come down (what I am doing) and the 45 is just in the way for that.
Doug
Doug -
Now, I'm confused. How can the 45* be "in the way"? Can you post a picture of your DC and what you're trying to do?
you could stick with 5" duct, then add 4" saddles wherever you want to branch off for connection to a tool. If you decide to adapt from one size duct to another, keep in mind that there's a difference between a "reducer" and an "increaser" - the difference being the direction of the crimped end. The crimped end of all fittings should point towards the DC.
I'm using an X10 220 volt outlet module for my Oneida DC. I've got both wired and battery remotes scattered around the shop, so I'm never all that far from a remote switch panel. Then it's just a matter of remembering which of the blast gates is open.
Ok, the reason it is in the way is that I want to go strait up not up at a 45 degree angle. Hence it is in the way. (for lack of a better term).
What I would really like to do is go with 5" dia up and over to the point that the two main trunks split off and then got to 4" from that point, I would assume this would give max capacity (vs going to 4" then up to the split).
But the truth is I really do not want to go with metal if I can help it.
Doug
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