I just picked up a bunch of recovered walnut stock that is fairly rough and need to prep it for projects. I only have a small 6″ jointer (no planer) and some of this stock is 12″ wide and 6′ long, so I’ve decided to do it by hand. I’ve flattened and squared much smaller pieces of mahogony before, but never anything on this scale. I only have a block plane and a #3 bench plane so I’m debating whether to buy a #5 or a #6 to do this job. Anyone have any advice both on the planes and on the technique for doing the job. If all else fails I’ve got a buddy who owns a woodworking business and he’ll run it through his planer for me, but this sounds like a challenge that could be fun. Am I biting off more than I can chew? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
-Art
Replies
Art,
Using a plane for your project is a great way to get the job done. I don't own a jointer, but I do have a planer, so all my stock is at some point hand planed. Walnut planes quite well, in most cases it is easier to plane than mahogany, which is known for its reversing grain. I work mostly across or diagonal to the grain, just because it is easier
( shorter strokes) and no chance of tear out, switching to, with the grain to finish up. Depending on the grain you may have to add a cabinet or hand scraper to your arsenal. I find 6' lengths about the longest that I like to plane by hand.
The No. 6 is my pick for an all around plane.
Rob Millard
Hello Art. Any plane will work to flatten your boards, but if you are choosing between the 5 or 6 I would base the decision on which one you would prefer to have for other projects. Personally I would choose the 6 because of its longer length and weight. It will naturally be a better joiner and will surface a board more acurately. If you are doing a lot of surfacing by hand, I would recommend buying a scrub plane. They have a convex blade and remove an enormous amount of wood very fast. When I surface by hand I srub 1 side clean and flip the board to check for rock. When there is no rock it is flat and I then start flattening the other side. I scrub this side, check for wind, and if OK I go straight to a #8. I don't see any need for a jack as the mass of the 8 and the length will do a better job. When It is all flat check for wind, and if OK flip the board scribe a line all the way around the edge and scrub close finishing with the #8. When everything is flat and no wind, I use a 4-1/2 to smooth.
Art -- you didn't say what you wanted to achieve with these boards, but I assume you want to work them four square and dimensioned for subsequent jointing and finishing. If so, I don't believe you're going to get a one-size-fits-all answer. You could need a scrub plane if there's much uneven material to remove, and you'll probably need a #7 or #8 for flattening and trueing (although a shorter plane could do the job with more difficulty). A difference of opinion due to personal preferences would include some kind of smoothing plane before you're finished, say a number 4 or 4 1/2 (which could also mean one of several blade angle options depending on how your grain runs) followed by scraping as mentioned above. So, in other words, your question need to be narrowed a bit to fit the circumstances. But, I personally would find it very unwelcome to have to work all those boards with only one plane.
Art
Lie-Nielsen has an excellent DVD ("Rough to Ready", by Rob Cosman) showing exactly what you are trying to do. It is $20+S/H. http://www.lie-nielsen.com/library.html?cat=6
In the DVD, Cosman recommends a Scrub plane to flatten the rough stock, a #8 (I use a #7) to get the stock to nominal dimension and then a #4 1/2 to smooth the stock.
You don't need the scrub plane ($145) but I would recommend at least a #7 ($400) or if you are really serious a #8 ($450) and a #4 1/2 ($300). These are L-N prices. You can find these size planes for a lot less if you are willing to put time into each one to tune them.
Good luck, but watch out. Other wood workers will start referring to you as a "Neandertal" (a good thing!!)
_________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
Art,
I'd have some fun with it, but keep your options open to go to your buddy and his planer...it's nice wood and you'll want to make sure it's truly flat and square.
Let me add a thought or two to the others comments. I'd take that #3 open the mouth wide(5/16") and use that as a scrub working on the diagonal. Then use the #6 running length wise with a fairly closed mouth to complete the flattening. I would run it through my buddies planer and close the mouth(1/16") on the #3 and use that as a smoother. Perhaps end up with hand scraping after a few days and checking for any tearout....have fun
How much do you have to spend on a plane? I'd like to recommend the Lie-Nielsen #62 with a toothed and standard blade, all told around $275. Very versatile, very useful, especially for your stated application. I'd like to point out that if you don't have good sharpening gear, you'll need that, or you'll be hatin' life. I have more details on that plane if you need them. You can see it at L-N's web site. Also, even if your friend has a planer, you'll have to get one side flat in order to use it; back to a hand plane.
Charlie
Art...
if budget is restricting you to just the one plane, I'd opt for the L-N 62, c/w 1 extra "normal" blade and a toothing blade. With the standard blades, hone one at 30 deg, the other at 40 deg. Start with the toothing blade in the plane and scrub the board to roughly the right shape; at this stage you're trying to remove any cup and twist across the board, as well as bow along the board. Check your work periodically with winding sticks and a good long straight edge. At this stage you can set the mouth wide open and adjust the blade to really hog out the rough material; the length of the plane will naturally start to joint the board as you work, across the board to begin with before adjusting for a lighter cut to go down the board working with the grain.
Change blades, adjust the blade and mouth to take a moderate cut to begin with, and start to cut down the rough ridges left by the toothing blade; the more progress you make, the more you need to adjust towards taking a finer cut. That higher pitched blade is kept in reserve for when the grain turns wild on you; adjust for an ultra fine cut and take your time, working along the grain with the plane skewed can work wonders on difficult areas.
Given free reign, I'd prefer to have a longer plane at my disposal to make the jointing of the board a little easier... you'll get there with the 62, but it'd involve more frequent stopping / checking.
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Hi Mike. I have seen a lot of people here advising the use of the toothed blade for scrubbing. I have never tried one, mainly because I have a scrub plane, but I wonder why use the toothed as opposed to a regular blade? I thought that the toothed was just for abrading the surface before veneering.
I prefer to use a proper scrub plane too, often wishing I'd bought the thing years ago. Apparently a toothing blade isn't quite as aggressive as the scrub (lacks the camber for a start) but it serves pretty well as a kinda second string scrub; in effectiveness I reckon it's be somewhere between a scrub and a real course jack.My normal board prep involves the scrub (#40 1/2), the #62, the #7 and the #4 1/2, adding the #112 if all else fails. Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Hey, Pete,I have the L-N #62, and the toothed blade. The demo guy at the L-N booth at a recent WW show showed me that it can be used quite effectively to scrub, and although it doesn't make cuts as deep as the scrub plane, it causes NO tearout; that makes smoothing much quicker, and avoids wasting material. I have found it to work well, although I still lust after a true scrub plane.In other areas, the 62 is beautiful With just a quick honing, I can move from a true low-angle attack to one which simulates a 60 deg bed angle on a typical smoother quite nicely; the adjustable mouth makes a lot possible. It's a cool instrument.I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
Thanks a ton!!! I'm relieved to hear that this is not going to be impossible for me. I figure I'll start with the most narrow shortest board and work on technique, then go up to the big guys. I think I will shop around for a #6 as cheap as possible and then invest a day into tuning it. I've had good luck with this approach getting my other two planes performing very well, for very little money. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Art
Art, I note that many of your responents sound as though cost were of no interest. Let me tell you that old rusty Stanleys can be picked up at flea markets and antique shops for 10 or 20.00, and can be cleaned up and trued up for good service. My scrub plane is just such a piece, an old No. 6. I filed out the mouth for heavy shavings and ground the blade to a convex contour. I have a nice assortment of planes, only one of which was bought new. This approach to tool acquisition can be used in other areas than planes.
Tom
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