After an Evaporust bath I have a mint plane circa 1909 with very little wear. An upgrade to a LV A-2 iron-a Stanley replacement iron and a two piece Clifton cap iron has failed due to the placement of the rectangular cut out for the blade adjustment being too far down the cap towards the edge, the end of the cast yoke (not too worn) has not enough reach. All of this set up is with a set back of .079 of the cap from the edge, which works only with the Stanley cap.
I overlayed the original Stanley cap with the Clifton and the lower edge of the Clifton cap is about 1/8 lower . I have used Clifton caps on a great variety of other Stanley and Miller’s Falls upgrades with great success for both Bailey and flat top Bed Rock styles.
Any suggestions, Paddy
BTW-other items.
1-Welcome back Bro. Lataxe
2- Kudos (again) to FG, I finally gave up on Evaporust from Auto Zone at $10 a quart -if they can find it. I found an industrial supply 4 hours away here in Tn. with a 5 gal pail for $80 + $20 for UPS right to the shop door. Using the Wallmart Tupper ware (read cheap) tub for planes, irons, #45/55 cutters and an under the bed sweater storage tub at @$6, I just did two old Disston D-15’s a crosscut and a rip as well as a 1929? #4 back saw-24″ . The big tub lets you use less juice for flat items. This stuff is fantastic.
Replies
I had a similar issue with a LN chipbreaker. Called LN and they said to return it and they would make one that would work. However, I decided to enlarge the engaging hole to where it worked correctly and then braze a piece in to fill in the resulting gap.
Worked like a charm.
Tony, which plane was that on? My other problem was the lever cap screw was hitting the chip breaker before the iron was in cutting position. Paddy
That was on a Stanley Bailey #4.
I smell an answer to one of my Evaporust questions. After doing the saw blades, does the 'Disston' ect printed on the blade remain? I'd love to clean a couple of my grandfather's saws, but I've resisted until hearing from someone who's done the deed.
Now I only await hearing from someone who used it (successfully, need I point out, LOL) to unseize a motor.
ED, these logos were light when I started and a little lighter when I finished but very clean. I used fine 00 steel wool in the second pass and removed 95% of the very black carbon film . Now I need a rain day to get on to jointing and sharpening, sunny days are for pressure cleaning the house and both decks prior to shooting 15 gal. of SW cape cod stain. Paddy
UPDATE ON THE CLIFTON CAP; While on the throne of contemplation I was going over the little items usually skipped in FWW Tools & Shops Winter 2001/2002 No. 153 and found the answer in the Q&A section.
Mr. Hack sees the Clifton cap too long for some of the Stanley or Record planes due to mfg variances. The solution is to square up the holes in the Stanley cap with the Clifton and mark off how much you have to file off the nose of the Clifton with a sharpie marker, file it off, dress the top radius and insure the flatness of the bottom edge(hone). It seems Clifton was generous with the width of the flat to accommodate these adjustments up to 3/16". Now, where did I put that fine single cut file?. Enjoy, Paddy
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled