Guess this a poll of sorts. Just wondering what blade you folks use in your circular saw for breaking down plywood? Something from the big boxes with 40 teeth or something different?
Thanks,
Greg
Guess this a poll of sorts. Just wondering what blade you folks use in your circular saw for breaking down plywood? Something from the big boxes with 40 teeth or something different?
Thanks,
Greg
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
It's hard to go wrong with a 40T Freud D0740 or TK303 for ~ $15. Oshlun's got a nice 40T 7-1/4" for < $10. Forrest has a nice 7-1/4" blade for a lot more money.
As a utility blade I picked up two Hitachi at Lowes that had a piece of split clear surgical tubing wrapped around it for $9+(new price IIRC is $11.99). It has a funky pointed grind that is sooo sharp that I cut myself twice just hanging the blade. It cuts like a razor and after almost two years I have not needed that second blade. Paddy
Makita hardi plank blade. Only has 20 or so teeth but cuts very smooth with VERY little tear out. Came with the saw, so I tried it and so impressed I ordered more. Not cheap at $35 but work great.
I've been using an Irwin 24 t blade for just about everything, mainly because I got a great deal on a bunch of them. The "plywood blades" that I have tried over time have pretty much been a disappointment, but then I have yet to spring for the Freud or Forrest blades. The Irwins have cut 2 x 4 framing limber, 1/2" Poplar, 3/4" red oak, 1/4" red oak veneer plywood, 3/4" pine, 3/4" plywood and 1/2" OSB pretty well so far. (My cs is a Makita).
I use a Forrest WWII in a PC CS. Great little combo matched with a truegrip 50" clamping strait edge.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I used to sell cheap bulk throwaways to companies building storage buildings. Then I got hold of the Tenryu line and it was a real winner! It is also marketed by Porter Cable in their rip-tide series. I think that it is 24 teeth, and cut ply really well, 3 sheets stacked up to cut all at the same time. Price was close to double the cheapies, but longevity was at least 3 times and cleaner cuts and the stack cutting.
I bought a Porter Cable rip-tide blade as a throwaway. Still using it after maybe 20 sawing sessions on MDF and plywood.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
I really came to like the Tenryu blade line, and was rep'ing them on the side while a tooling salesman. I could provide blades to do things that our regular line of blades could not do or as well. There are blades that will cut steel studs or all-thread rod, with a skil saw or chop saw. Being Japanese they are nearly all thin kerf and ran very true.
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who replied.
Knotscott, I'm currently using the 40T Freud D0740 and for a $15 blade I'm happy with it. Seems a little rough on the rip, but I get real picky sometimes. (remember $15 blade)
The Makita hardi plank, Tenryu, and Forrest WWII are ones I'll look at over time. Already have a Forrest in my RAS and am very happy with it. As a hobbyist that doesn't cut all that much plywood I find hard to step up to the Forrest for a CS.
Thanks again to everyone.
Greg
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled