Because of the size of my shop I normally cross cut plywood with a circular saw to get “close” to size then clean up on my table saw. My question is, what saw blade are you guys using for a hand held worm drive circular saw when crosscutting plywood? I realize the Festool is probably ideal but I do not want to spend the money at this time.
Thank you in advance for your feedback.
Erik
Replies
I use a Porter Cable Saw Boss with a Porter Cable "RipTide" thin kerf alternate top bevel blade with 40 teeth. My saw is different than yours, but I think the principal still applies. PC makes the same blade in 7-1/4.
I too have put off the Festool purchase and originally set out to get "close" using the circular saw and then go to the table saw. After making a plywood guide and developing a steady feed rate, I began making my final cuts using the circular saw and eliminating the trip to the table saw. I set the blade depth so it was just deep enough to make the cut. I was happy with the accuracy and smoothness of the cut.
Edited 3/21/2007 10:47 pm ET by Quickstep
Erik, I found a $10+ hitachi at lowe's wrapped in a piece of split clear tubing , it's a little funny looking and so sharp ya gotta be careful with the fingers. On my skill #77 it cuts 3/4 ply like butter, buy two. Paddy
Before I got a Festool set-up, I used this Forrest blade in my CS for cutting plywood sheets with a shooting board:
http://tinyurl.com/2rxa8l
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Makita hardi plank blade. Not cheap but cuts very smooth with little tearout.
For clean cuts the worm drive with the smart base from eurekazone.
The base comes with 2 sets of antisplintering zero clearance incerts.
Even a 24 teeth blade gives you clean cuts with this setup.
http://www.eurekazone.com./products/detail/smartbase.html
For long cross cuts the worm is better than a sidewinder (longer reach)
david
I have the PC left blade model. Its a personal preferance I like worm drive saws, I'm left handed. For the blade, I use the Forresst WWII. Its the smaller brother to the 10". It cost more than the standard blades, but I use saw horses and a good strait edge, combined with the Portercable, and my edge cuts are glue ready. In My opinion its a fantastic combination. Thats my two cents worth. Good luck on the decision.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Thank you all. There seems to be several viable optoins for me to improve on my crosscutting with a circular saw. I have purchased a new blade and will give it a try. If that fails I think I will try the smart base and insert. I will post results.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Erik-
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