Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 02, 2009 06:46pm | #1

   Paul,

   What size is the stock, and how close to perfectly straight do the edges need to be?

   John White
   Shop Manager for Fine Woodworking Magazine, 1998-2007

1. 
   raul_ruiz | Jun 02, 2009 07:48pm | #4

   John,

    

   The stock is 7 feet by 6 inch wide 8/4.  The final railing will need to be 1 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 6 feet. 

   Thanks,

   Raul

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 02, 2009 07:18pm | #2

   I've had good success in jointing long boards simply by using the TS with a Forrest WWII blade. If the board edge is not pretty straight to begin with, I use and auxiliary fence.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA
   Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jun 02, 2009 07:32pm | #3

   Add some extension tables to the jointer. They should be flat and evenly in line.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   raul_ruiz | Jun 02, 2009 07:51pm | #6

   Thank you for the suggestion.  In thinking about this, how are the tables attached?

   Raul

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 02, 2009 11:59pm | #9

   I was able to drill some holes in the ends of the tables and bolt on a block. The tables are U shaped at that end, drop over the block and can be removed with a couple of screws. There are numerous ways to make an attachment, it all depends on your jointer and your creativity. The other end of the extension tables have an adjustable leg. It's no problem to do large, long, heavy stock on my little jointer. Struggling on a machine isn't safe and you can't straighten an edge if the offending area is hanging off the end.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   raul_ruiz | Jun 03, 2009 02:57pm | #12

   Thank you for the suggestion.  I will take the time to build the extension and keep it safe.

   Raul

2. 
   frenchy | Jun 03, 2009 04:53am | #10

   that's what I do up to 20 feet.  However I use rollers for two reasons. one because I have them and 2 because it's easier..

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 03, 2009 10:28am | #11

   Rollers don't really work for a jointer, Frenchy. You need a flat platform to reference the stock to. 20'? Keep it real, Bro.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   frenchy | Jun 04, 2009 02:03am | #13

   Hammer1

     No all you need is a referance level.. the infeed side of my jointer is over 3 feet and the rollers are less than an inch apart.   They work just fine on things up to 20 feet (which I work with on a regular basis)   

   If you want a flat table to use on infeed and outfeed that's fine.  My rollers also work great too. same principle..

   Edited 6/3/2009 7:04 pm ET by frenchy

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 04, 2009 02:45am | #14

   Sorry I had to.. Been there and did that..

   Add some extension tables to the jointer.  I agree..

   However, as the stock curled a bit comming off the outfeed, it knocked over the roller stand!

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 04, 2009 04:17am | #15

     Will ,

                   I wish a had a nickel for every time my roller fell over.

                 Thats why Hammers flat table theory is sooo good .

                      regards           dusty

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 04, 2009 04:48am | #16

   I wish a had a nickel for every time my roller fell over.

   Old I hear ya!

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 04, 2009 03:50pm | #17

   Check out the flip-top "roller stands" at Home Depot. (That's the only reason I go there.)They are not "roller" stands as they have a flat surface that flips. It is the flipping action that permits a board to arrive at the stand by as much as in inch or so "low". The stand then flips to level to support the board as it continues its journey out from the saw or jointer.Here is a link to a photo:http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/workshop/1274496.htmlFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

   Edited 6/4/2009 8:57 am ET by Jfrostjr

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 04, 2009 05:14pm | #18

     Frosty ,

               Thanks for the link , I need one of those for $30 it is a deal.

          I need it more for the thickness planer off side and shapers that I run longish moldings on .

               regards       dusty

2. 
   twotowers | Jun 06, 2009 06:08am | #20

   Frosty,

   what does it cost?

   TT

3. 
   forestgirl | Jun 06, 2009 06:28am | #21

   (s'cuze) $29.97 per Home Depot web site.

   View Imageforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

4. 
   twotowers | Jun 06, 2009 06:55am | #23

   Thanks & Best
   TT

5. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 06, 2009 04:14pm | #24

   Thanks, Jamie,It has been a while since I bought mine. I don't us my rollers any more - long rollers "steer" the offcut; roller-balls lose stuff between the balls. On the Ridged device, they slide perfectly over the flat surface and the stand is really stable.JerryFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

6. 
   forestgirl | Jun 06, 2009 05:55pm | #25

   It's a cool device, sseems well-liked by those who've used one. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   frenchy | Jun 04, 2009 05:34pm | #19

   I don't like roller stands.. I too have tipped them over far too often.. However I do like rollers!

    Those 10 foot long things trucks unload groceries into stores with. or packages wiz around at UPS on, etc..

    I mount mine on wooden saw horses made of black walnut 4x4's.   Since I built my double timberframe house using them I know they will easily handle 8000# because I've had that much in timbers on them..

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 06, 2009 06:34am | #22

   And then again my shop floor was ruined by a old Maple tree (that I let grow by  mistake) because I like trees! Nothing level anymore in my shop... OR MY HOUSE!

   Is there a spring under my house to feed it water?

   Edited 6/5/2009 11:34 pm by WillGeorge

4. 
   ring | Jun 02, 2009 07:50pm | #5

   To make a handrail it's my guess that the piece doesn't need to be perfectly jointed. Go right from the tablesaw to shaper or handplane or whatever you intend to use next.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

5. 
   roland_johnson | Jun 02, 2009 08:02pm | #7

   Raul,
   Proper jointer setup and technique will result in straigth stock. Start by making sure your jointer is correctly setup (there are plenty of good articles on this subject in the FWW archives). If the knives are too high or low in relation to the outfeed table you will create a bow or belly. Once the jointer is correctly setup then it becomes a matter of technique. Sight down the board to determine where the majority of the wood must be removed to get the board straight. If it has a cup along its length then the ends need to be worked on first, if there's a belly start working on the middle of the board. Once the worst of the lumps are gone then start running the board the entire length making sure you keep most of the down pressure on the outfeed table...very important. As you start jointing the board the down pressure will be on the infeed table, of course, but as soon as there is enough stock on the outfeed table to allow a good grip move your left hand to that side of the cutterhead and apply all your downpressure on the outfeed table using your right hand to feed the wood. When you have enough room for both hands over the outfeed table move your right hand to that side and finish jointing the edge.

   Roland

6. 
   brad805 | Jun 02, 2009 11:08pm | #8

   I like hammers solution, but you may also try adding some weight to the jointer and trying again.  I always found my old 6" jointer was too light for larger or heavy stock.  A ripped edge off the TS should will also work fine if you final size with an outboard fence on the shaper or router table.  I agree that you should aim for perfect blanks otherwise the discrepancies tend to echo in the final rail and then you pretty much are stuck with hand sanding to fix it.

   Brad